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Kelly James

close call.......very close call

Black Diamond ABS - Bionic AntiBotts

Rating for this product: 5 June 26, 2006

I was almost killed numerous times because of these antibott plates.

I was climbing Liberty Ridge, Mt. Rainier. Liberty Ridge is one of the more vertical climbs and very exposed. On the vertical ice several times (8-10), my rope kept getting lodged between my front point of my crampon and the antibott plate. I could not shake my boot to loosen it, instead I had to hang from one ice tool and one crampon to a 5000' - 8000' very exposed 60-85 degree slope, reach down with my left hand and physically yank the rope out of the antibott plate and crampon. As you can imagine, I was terrified (understatement of the century!!!).

But even more terrifying was the very last pitch, when I was on 85 degree/100' ice, 9000' slide and the berchsrund. I was climbing over the top edge, it caught my rope again, this time I could not move and was sliding off the top whenever I reached down to dislodge the rope from the antibott plate. It was only by a miracle, I was able to barely reach the rope at the last second and save myself.

I have been climbing most of my life (28 years) all over the world, this has never happened. I suggest they re-design the antibott plates before someone gets killed or injured. They did keep the snow from balling up, though.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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close call.......very close call

Black Diamond ABS - Bionic AntiBotts

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