Ecrin Roc

Ecrin Roc

Petzl Ecrin Roc Climbing Helmet

March 29, 2011

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Last Pitch

Last Pitch

Outdoor Research Expedition Crocodile Gaiter

March 28, 2011

Been using these gaiters for years and still no holes!

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Worst Night Out In A Long Time...

Black Diamond Twilight Bivy

Black Diamond Twilight Bivy

Rating for this product: 1 April 16, 2012

After reading some mixed reviews on this bivy, I decided to give it a shot in an effort to lighten up my kit by about a pound. I was hoping to use it in moderate weather in the alpine where little to no precipitation would be seen. As the weather forecast was looking beautiful, I took it out this weekend for a test run atop a snowy ridge in the Cascades. Ideal conditions, clear skys, light wind, no snow, and this thing managed to sucked hard. I woke up three hours into the night to find the inside of the bivy completely soaked. A few hours later and my bag was soaked through and no longer providing me warmth. I have no idea how the product description can claim bit of breathability, as this bivy was about as breathable as a trash bag. Quite a long and cold night from that point on. A point to note; I slept with the hood open and my face out into the air all night long. My breath did not contribute to the condensation in the bag. The seams were also sealed with Seamgrip prior to spending a night in it.
It was a bummer that this bivy didn't work out as I would have liked. I don't recommend this, or any Black Diamond bivy made of this material to anyone who would use it in an alpine environment. I'm glad I tested it on a mellow climb where the only repercussions were a shiver bivy and a lack of sleep. Anything bigger and things could have been worse.
Do yourself a favor and steer clear of BD bivys.

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I forget it's there sometimes

CAMP USA Speed Ski and Climbing Helmet

CAMP USA Speed Ski and Climbing Helmet

Rating for this product: 4 July 26, 2011

This helmet is crazy light, but doesn't sacrifice any coverage area, the best of both worlds. It honestly doesn't feel like it's there sometimes.
Just the right amount of hardshell coating in the spots where it matters, none where it doesn't to save on weight. It's been pretty durable so far, although I've only had it out a few times. Beat the crap out of if ice climbing the other weekend and took lots of ice to the head over two days and the helmet doesn't show a scratch.
Adjustment is easy to dial in and it fits nicely to my head. Will be interesting to see how if fells when skiing.
A great addition to your kit if you're looking to cut weight in the helmet area. You really can't find a lighter helmet!

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La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's

July 26, 2011

These boots will work fine on any mountain in the lower 48 in all seasons. Provided you keep moving your feet will be fine. IF you're really worried about it, you can try an overboot but I think you'll find it too warm. Plastics are overkill in my opinion.

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One you go wool you'll never go back

Stoic Merino 150 Bliss Shirt - Short-Sleeve - Men's

Stoic Merino 150 Bliss Shirt - Short-Sleeve - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 July 11, 2011

I'll never wear polypro ever again after wearing a merino wool base layer. It breathes like no other and absorbs more moisture than polypro but dries slower so you don't freeze in a matter of minutes when you stop what you're doing. Also, it doesn't retain smell, which is a godsend as polypro develops a funk that no amount of washing can cure.
Stoic's version is very nice and a great value, especially if you pick it up on SAC. Get one and you'll never go back to your stinky polypro ever again

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Nice!

Outdoor Research PL 400 Mittens - Men's

Outdoor Research PL 400 Mittens - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 July 7, 2011

Nice and versatile mitts. Use them on their own when the temps drop or with the cornice or alti shells for insane warmth and waterproofness! Can't go wrong with OR's lifetime guarantee either

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Best beacon out there

Mammut Pulse Barryvox Avalanche Beacon

Mammut Pulse Barryvox Avalanche Beacon

Rating for this product: 5 June 24, 2011

I took the opportunity to extensively play with and test all three of the "high end" beacons (S1, Pulse, DPS) on the market recently when upgrading from a 10 year old tracker, and the Mammut was by far my favorite. To me, the interface was very easy and intuitive to read and use. The GUI has no frills or pictures of little buried men like the S1, which to me seemed clunky and awkward. Just a list of buried signals, a floating arrow, and a number; perfect. Marking signals is easy, and scrolling through signals in multiple burial situations is easy and gives you the info you need quickly to determine who to locate first.
Being able to hear the analog signal too also aids in searching, and if all else fails and the software starts going crazy, you can always switch over to analog mode and you're still in business.
The newer firmware has gotten rid of much of the annoying "Stand Still" and "Hold Level" messages that used to pop up all of the time. I rarely see any of these now.
As always for any beacon, practice with it and become proficient with it so it becomes second nature to use.

Bottom line; this is a great beacon with many advanced features that can really aid in a recovery situation. Even with all of the bells and whistles though, the interface makes it easy for anyone to just pick up and start using without prior experience. Worth the extra $$ over other models.

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Backcountry Access Tracker DTS Beacon

June 24, 2011

Having owned and used both, I prefer the Pulse for it's multi-burial capabilities and I like GUI better on the Pulse. The claim that the DTS is "faster" is BS; both are equally as fast in a single burial situation given sufficient practice with each unit.
The DTS can handle multiple burials, but we've noticed on several occasions that it gets bogged down and slows the more signals that are marked. This can be alleviated by turning the unit off and then back on again to clear the buffer, but then you lose your marked signals, and you lose time; very annoying. This is why I went with the Pulse in the end.

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Outdoor Research Alti Mitten - Men's

June 24, 2011

The liners have a couple millimeters of primaloft on the top of the hand and a midweight fleece type material on the bottoms of the palm and fingers. My hands don't feel restricted at all with the liner+glove combo.
Pairing these with a lighter inner liner, like what you're describing, for not-so-cold temps works great. I frequently use a light OR fleece glove as an inner liner when I know the temps won't be bitter.

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Always carry one

Omega Pacific Rappel Ring

Omega Pacific Rappel Ring

Rating for this product: 4 June 21, 2011

I'm of the thought that you should always carry one of these guys with you when you're heading out on a climb that will require you to rappel. Whether to replace old, worn rings on other rap stations, or to set up a new one, I feel much safer running my rope through one of these guys rather than straight through a sling, and these cost less than a biner.
Just carry one, you'll be glad you did when you need it

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How did we tour without these?

Dynafit TLT 5 Mountain TF-X Alpine Touring Boot

Dynafit TLT 5 Mountain TF-X Alpine Touring Boot

Rating for this product: 5 June 15, 2011

That's the question I've been asking myself every time I take these boots out. The "up" in these boots is awesome. I've never actually found myself really looking forward to the up until owning these boots. The range of motion is huge letting me take bigger strides and go faster without having to fight the boot. The rockered sole and metatarsal flex provide for a more natural stride that is much more comfortable than franken-stepping.
Transition is a snap and very easy. Slide the removable tongues in (if you want) and lock down the two buckles and your transition is complete. You'll have to come up with something to kill the time as you wait for your buddies to finish fiddling with their clunky boots.
Then there in the downhill performance...which is excellent! With the tongues inserted, these boots ski similar to other stiff 4 buckle boots out there. The stiffness is pretty even throughout the flex, and you can really drive these pretty hard without blowing them out. I'm 170lbs and can't flex through these with the tongue in.
Bottom line; these boots are an amazing step forward in touring boots. Huge range of motion and comfort on the up, very stiff and responsive on the down. This is THE touring boot to have.

Quick note on sizing; I found that they run a little small. I generally take a 27.5 in ski boots (Scarpa, Saloman) but comfortably fit into a 28.5 in these.

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They work

Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runners

Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runners

Rating for this product: 4 May 25, 2011

Solid construction, strong materials. I trust my life to these and they work great

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Smaller, faster, lighter, better

Trango Cinch Belay Device

Trango Cinch Belay Device

Rating for this product: 5 May 19, 2011

I really like this little device. It's smaller and lighter than both versions of grigris, and feeds out rope easier and faster in my opinion. Feeding out rope also feels safer on the cinch than feeding on a grigri as you aren't pinching the cam down in order to feed rope fast.
While lead belaying with the cinch isn't intuitive at first, after a couple uses you'll get the hang of it and belaying with it will be second nature. Top roping or belaying a second is the same action as an ATC, so no learning curve. Watch Trango's video on how to use this and you'll be comfortable with it in no time.
The lowering seems touchy but again, it just takes a few uses to get used to it. You can also redirect the rope through a biner clipped to a leg loop to give even more control in the lower.
The device catches falls quickly but provides a measure of dynamic belay as well, which is always nice on a lead fall.
In all this is the best brake-assisting belay device on the market in my opinion. Take a little extra time to learn it and break the habit of a grigri and you won't want to pick up that grigri again!

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Five Ten Quantum Climbing Shoe

May 3, 2011

I've had no problem getting great smears with these. The downturn isn't as drastic as other shoes and allows you to get some great surface contact while smearing. Definitely a much different shoe when compared to something like a Team.
I own both Teams and Quantums and my teams rarely see any more use now.

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CAMP USA Corsa Nanotech Ice Axe

May 3, 2011

Any axe will do; you're really only spending the extra money on this for the weight savings. Any of the BD Ravens, Grivels, or other CAMP axes will all function basically identically. People just really like this axe since it's so light, but you can get away with paying a lot less for basically the same performance in a slightly heavier package.

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Dynafit TLT 5 Mountain TF-X Alpine Touring Boot

May 3, 2011

They will work with any tech binding; so Dynafit, G3 Onyx or others like those.

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Great small sizes

Metolius Master Cam

Metolius Master Cam

Rating for this product: 4 April 25, 2011

I have sizes 0-2 on my rack and really like them. They feel very solid and the action is deliberate and reassuring. 4 lobes on cam sizes this small is nice to have. The stem has a nice flex to it as well, but not so much to buckle when using the trigger (unlike the larger sizes).
I'd definitely recommend master came for smaller placement options

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Dynafit TLT 5 Mountain TF-X Alpine Touring Boot

April 21, 2011

I've had pretty much the same experience as dwpow. When going up or down they've been fine as far as warmth goes. The only time my feet got cold was when I was sitting on a lift when I took them to a resort, but even then it wasn't anything unbearable.

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Scarpa Spirit 4

Scarpa Spirit 4 Alpine Touring Boot

Scarpa Spirit 4 Alpine Touring Boot

Rating for this product: 4 April 21, 2011

As my first touring boot, I was blown away by how different these felt than my previous alpine boots. They're very comfortable and light when compared to their beefier counterparts and make a great touring boot for short to moderate length tours.
I've been using these for over two years now and they've performed well in the situations I've thrown at them. On the up they articulate well and have a good range of motion for a easier stride. Also, having the toe tech fittings mounted a bit rearward than "normal" does make a difference and feels nicer and more natural in stride. The articulated green tongue aids in comfort when touring and is sufficiently stiff on the down. For resort/sidecountry days I'll slip the black, stiffer tongue in for added support and running the groomers.
The Intuition liners are top notch and very comfortable. Once mine were dialed in, I haven't had a problem with the fit on these in the two years I've abused them. The liners are also very warm! Often my boots end up like saunas in these boots while touring, but the liners do a good job of keeping moisture at a reasonable level inside as to not make your feet freeze when you stop moving and keep you pretty toasty when sitting around camp. The plastic grippy coating on the bottom of the liners is a nice touch and lets you wear them around camp as booties after you're done touring for the day.
All in all I've been happy with the spirit 4s and I'd recommend them to anyone looking for a touring boot that doesn't compromise much on the downhill but still comes in lighter than other beef AT boots out there.

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Excellent

Outdoor Research Alti Mitten - Men's

Outdoor Research Alti Mitten - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 April 19, 2011

Bomber mitts; the warmest on the market. The shell is Primaloft filled and can be worn by itself in less cold temperatures, or in combination with a variety of liner options that OR has. I find that the included liner is too heavy for most of the conditions I'm out in, so I use a PL150 or PL400 glove liner instead. This also gives me the dexterity I need on more technical routes, yet will keep my hands crazy warm when the temp drops.
If you need a really warm mitt for extreme temperatures, this is the only option worth considering.

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Nice Alternative to Dynafits

G3 Onyx AT Binding

G3 Onyx AT Binding

Rating for this product: 4 April 14, 2011

The Onyx is a nice system for those looking for an alternative to a Dynafit binding. While not the lightest weight tech binding option, I believe it's features make the little bit of extra weight worth it over their counterparts. For one, switching from ski to tour can be done without removing the ski. Yes, I know you can kind of do this with dynafits, but it's much more fiddly than throwing the lever on the onyx.
Second, the heal risers are flip risers. I've never been a fan of the "spin the post" system on dynafit binders and have seen a few break due to this leaving the skiier in a crappy situation not being able to ski out; I don't have to worry about that with the onyx. Even if a riser breaks, my heel post is still sound and I can ski out.
Third and one of the most important is the way the toe jaw operates. On the onyx you must press on the forward piece to open the jaws and insert your toe. While I agree that this makes it kind of a pain to put on in powder or on a steep section, it prevents lateral toe prerelease. All the dynafit models (save next years radical with power towers that help to combat this) are prone to this sort of release when the boot sees a high lateral load. The wings flex and can pop open, releasing your toe piece too early. Since the onyx naturally wants to clamp rather than open, it will take a far higher load to initiate a prerelease. While this problem isn't glaring (people have been using dynafits for years) it's something I didn't really want to take the chance with. Personal preference really.

I've been skiing on the onyx for two years now and haven't had any major issues that any of the other reviewers have had. They've seen plenty of backcountry and resort days and I couldn't be happier with them. You can't ski them hard like a duke, so if you're going to go huck yourself off of stuff consider a different binding and don't complain when these don't preform in that manner. Use them for their intended uses and you'll love them.

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Essential

Voile Ski Straps 9 Through 24 inches

Voile Ski Straps 9 Through 24 inches

Rating for this product: 4 April 12, 2011

Just like a shovel, beacon, and probe, I never go into the BC without these in my pack and generally carry at least two. They're wonderful for first aid and rescue applications (splints, sleds, etc) as well as fixing broken ski parts to allow you to get down safe. Just this weekend we had to fix a broken duke with a few of these in order to get out. Without a few of these in our packs, it would have been a long walk down.
Just take some with you. You won't regret it when you need them

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G3 Alpinist

G3 Alpinist Climbing Skin DO NOT USE

G3 Alpinist Climbing Skin DO NOT USE

Rating for this product: 4 April 12, 2011

Borrowed a pair of these over the weekend to fit on the teles and they worked great for what we were doing. I felt that the glide was just a little bit better than the full nylon BD skins I normally use, which was nice on some of the flatter spots. These also packed down smaller than the nylon ascensions. However I did notice that these did not grip as well on steeper sections. I kind of expected this after noting that the plush isn't nearly as thick as the all-nylon BDs, but the grip was more than adequate for most of the terrain we were on. The snow conditions were generally wetter and heavier, so these probably perform differently in colder and drier snow.
The glue was ok, but not as sticky as BD glue. Some may like that, some not; it was fine for me. The one thing I didn't like was the stopping of the rip strip early before the tip and tail. This made for variable resistances when pulling the skins off. While not a huge deal if you take your skis off to transition, if you keep them on the skin didn't release in one fluid motion that I'm used to with a skin that has a full length rip strip. This is just me nit picking really. I'm sure I would get used to transitioning if I used these regularly.
All in all, nice skins that save on weight and pack space if you're worried about that sort of thing.

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Bomber

Integral Designs Unishelter Bivy

Integral Designs Unishelter Bivy

Rating for this product: 5 April 11, 2011

This bivy is awesome and has kept me and my gear dry many times when it's started nuking out. Seams and zippers are locked down tight from moisture entering and the little vent above the raised area keeps the inside relatively condensation free. For warmer, drier nights, unzip the nylon above your face and get some fresh air through the mesh screen.
This bivy is nice in that it comes with a real pole, not some delrin shockchord piece of junk, to make sleeping in it more comfortable for those who don't like the claustrophobic feel of bivy sacks. The pole can be left behind to save some ounces and the bag works just as well.
(Quick tip for those who don't like the feeling of the fabric on your face as you sleep; wear a baseball hat and the brim will keep the fabric off of your face)
I'm 5'8" and there is plenty of room for me and my pack inside with some foot room to spare. 1/2 length side zipper makes getting yourself and your stuff in and out very easy.
This is an awesome choice for anyone in the market for a bivy that will keep you dry in the harshest conditions, but also have some comforts without adding a ton of extra weight.

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A little different

Sterling Chain Reactor Canyon Sling

Sterling Chain Reactor Canyon Sling

Rating for this product: 3 April 11, 2011

Just like any other looped personal anchor deal; works for it's intended uses. Each loop is full strength.
It's nice to be different than everyone else who has BW or Met looped anchors.

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Sterling Chain Reactor Canyon Sling

April 11, 2011

Girth hitching something like this (cloth to cloth) is fine as long as you're only loading it with a body weight load, which you should be doing with this. The stresses it will be seeing from a body weight only load are not high enough to cause the stress concentrated areas to fail. Now catching a lead fall...that's a different story.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Versatile Pants

Norrøna Svalbard Flex1 Softshell Pant - Men's

Norrøna Svalbard Flex1 Softshell Pant - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 April 11, 2011

Been using these for a little over two months now and I really like how versatile they are. They've gone resort skiing and touring in a variety of conditions, general mountaineering, and alpine rock climbing and have performed very well. They're warm enough to keep really nasty cold and winds out, but breath well enough that side zips aren't needed when you're working hard. The material is nice and stretchy and gives you a full range of motion without restricting you. The bottom cuffs stretch over the cuffs of my ski boots when touring to keep snow out, and the hook tab grabs onto buckles or laces to keep the cuf7f in place. Very handy.
Fit in the waist is a little off as I've found most Narrona pants to be. I'm a 33" in street clothes but a medium is a bit too snug on me, so I went with the large. The waist fit system gets these dialed and I generally wear a belt in addition. Just keep that in mind when sizing.
Awesome pants in general. I would definitely recommend them to anyone who needs a midweight pant for touring, mountaineering, climbing or hiking.

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Perfect for certain applications

Black Diamond Couloir Harness

Black Diamond Couloir Harness

Rating for this product: 4 April 11, 2011

This harness is the perfect piece for glacier traversing, ski mountaineering, and general fixed line traveling. Nice and lightweight; it compacts down very small and will save you a bunch of space.
I would not recommend using it for any sort of rock climbing, although you can take a fall and hang around in it. It's fairly comfortable supporting my body weight on rappels, but I wouldn't spend a whole day in it on a wall. Also there are only two gear loops, but again you shouldn't be racking up on this harness.
Bottom line; I love the space this harness saves me when I know I won't need to do anything really technical on a climb. Well worth the extra $15 over the Alpine Bod.

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Be Careful

DMM Micro Wallnut Set - No. 00-0.75

DMM Micro Wallnut Set - No. 00-0.75

Rating for this product: 4 April 8, 2011

I got this set included with my purchase of the 1-11 wallnuts and it's great to have these small sizes, however you have to be careful about using some of the smaller sizes. The 00 and 0 are only rated for 2kN, and is not recommended for taking a lead fall on them. Even the 4kN rated .5 and .75 I'd try to avoid taking a fall even though they could probably hold. These are more for aid climbing and body weight sort of applications. They work great for those however!

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Great Set

DMM Wallnuts Sets

DMM Wallnuts Sets

Rating for this product: 4 April 8, 2011

Purchased the 1-11 set and have been very happy with these so far. The recess in the nuts adds some surface area in interesting placements and hold very well. Like said before, they sometimes seem harder to remove than other brands, but that could just be setting technique.
I would definitely recommend

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Simple

Wild Country Technical Friends Camming Devices

Wild Country Technical Friends Camming Devices

Rating for this product: 4 April 8, 2011

Friends have been around forever, and these simply just work. While I don't feel the action on my #3 is quite as smooth as a BD, it works perfectly fine under load and does it's job. Plus Tech Friends are cheaper and come with a biner for racking. Can't really beat that!

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C4s

Black Diamond Camalot C4s

Black Diamond Camalot C4s

Rating for this product: 5 April 8, 2011

C4s are bomber. Solid construction, good feel; I trust my life to these. Not much more that can be said!

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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These things are great!

Omega Pacific Link Cam

Omega Pacific Link Cam

Rating for this product: 4 April 8, 2011

Man, these cams are awesome! I know there's a lot of horror stores out there about these cams, but honestly they work amazingly if you use them correctly. You have to be more mindful of the load path direction when placing these since they can pull and walk easier, but are bomber if placed in the right way.
They're a great "Oh shi-" piece and generally stay on my rack but it's nice that the option is there as it allows me to go lighter and carry less gear. Not using one of these pieces during a climb isn't terrible as it's nice to have the versatility of a Link at the end of a pitch when you're low on gear for an anchor. Great utility tool.

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Satisfy the inner nerd

Zeal Transcend SPX Goggle - Polarized

Zeal Transcend SPX Goggle - Polarized

Rating for this product: 4 April 7, 2011

A great idea that's been executed pretty well. It seems gimmicky at first but these are actually really nice. The Eclipse frame these are based on are awesome, and I love the lens on it (I have the photochromatic version). The gps is quite simple to use and you don't have to fiddle with it, just turn it on and ski! It will automatically track you all day and separate out your runs when you download the data to your computer. Awesome if you like looking at data and stats.
The battery life is OK and was at ~50% after a 6 hour ski day on brightness level 2/3; which is pretty good as I can get a full weekend out of these without having to recharge.
I found that the HUD was a little hard to read when I first put these on but became nicely in view when wearing a helmet. This is probably more due to the shape of my head, but it's something worth noting. That being said; the HUD is pretty sweet. It doesn't obstruct my view when I have to be concentrating on what's ahead of me, and in no wad does it cut down my field of vision, but it's nice and easily viewable when I want to check my speed, altitude, or vertical dropped. Reviewing run data on the chair is also cool too.
The price is really steep on these but they are a ton of fun and really satisfy the inner data nerd. Luckily I got a killer deal on the SPPX version and was able to pick up a pair; otherwise $500 for a goggle is a little much.
All in all I would highly recommend these if you have the cash to burn. It's nice they built this system on a bomber goggle!

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Zeal Tensai PPX

Zeal Tensai Sunglasses - Polarized

Zeal Tensai Sunglasses - Polarized

Rating for this product: 3 April 7, 2011

Nice glasses, by far my favorite that I've used so far. They will fog if you're working really hard without a proper breeze but most glasses will. Good fit for smaller to medium faces.
I have the photo-chromatic version and I'm not totally sold on it. I can't particularly detect the tint change at all. If they do change tint they're definitely not as pronounced as the photo-chromatic technology on their goggle lenses.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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BD STS Skins

Black Diamond Ascension Nylon STS Skins

Black Diamond Ascension Nylon STS Skins

Rating for this product: 4 April 7, 2011

Been on these two seasons now and they've performed admirably in the conditions I've put them through. I prefer the BD attachment methods to just about all other brands out there; super easy on and off.
My only complaint is that I don't get very good glide out of these at all and I feel as I lose some efficiency due to the lack of glide of a mohair or mixed skin. This grip can be a good thing too, as they grip like nobody's business and I've climbed angles that I shouldn't be climbing. Basically you have to ask yourself if you want more grip or more glide. If grip is the choice, go with these and you won't be disappointed.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Black Diamond Ascension Nylon STS Skins

April 6, 2011

I've always sized my skins based on the dimension of the tail. So a 125mm wide skin should work just fine for you (and you'll save some green!). Remember; you'll be trimming off ~2mm on each side for your edges anyway.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Light is Right

CAMP USA Corsa Nanotech Ice Axe

CAMP USA Corsa Nanotech Ice Axe

Rating for this product: 5 April 4, 2011

Great idea for a lightweight axe. A full aluminum head construction of the Corsa make me a little wary about it's performance and durability, but the added steel pick and spike on the nanotech put my fears of this lightweight axe to rest. It's been very durable and the pick and spike have penetrated ice very well and without hesitation. Most people won't believe how light this guy is until they hold it. Well worth the extra money.
For sizing, I'm 5'8" and use a 50cm (I like my axes a little shorter). A 60cm would also work for my stature if you're looking for more of a glacier travel style axe.

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Good First Axe

Grivel Nepal S.A. Ice Axe with Leash

Grivel Nepal S.A. Ice Axe with Leash

Rating for this product: 4 April 1, 2011

This was my first ice axe and it treated me well. A little heavier than other things out there, but I found that I liked the curve of the shaft more than it's straight shafted counterparts. The curve made it easier to press your chest against the shaft and leverage more weight onto the pick when in a self arrest position. Added leash is a nice bonus.
I'm 5'9" and used a 66cm axe for general mountaineering for sizing purposes.

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They can take a beating...

Outdoor Research Expedition Crocodile Gaiter

Outdoor Research Expedition Crocodile Gaiter

Rating for this product: 4 March 30, 2011

...and still keep on being awesome. I chose the expedition gaiters over the crocs for the durability and I have not been disappointed. They're also backed by OR's lifetime guarantee, so if anything goes wrong OR will make it right. Warm, durable and fit well; what more could you ask for in a pair of gaiters?

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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A Mountaineering Classic

Petzl Ecrin Roc Climbing Helmet

Rating for this product: 4 March 24, 2011

There is a reason that the Ecrin Roc is a classic; it simple and it works. No frills on this guy, just simple, easy to use adjustment wheels and straps that adjust to your head quickly and comfortably. No foam to degrade over time, so the only thing you have to worry about taking strength away from this helmet is headbutting rocks into oblivion.
Some say that it's heavier and sits higher on your head than some of the newer style foam-insert helmets, and they're right; it does sit higher and it is a bit heavier. Personally, I'd rather take the extra few ounces and have it look a bit dorky-er as security to know that my brain won't be splattered all over the rock when I take one to the dome. Wouldn't you?
Plus the classic look makes you look like you know what you're doing out there ;)

Nailed It? 3 Yes

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Simple Deploy

Backcountry Access Profile 240 Avalanche Probe

Backcountry Access Profile 240 Avalanche Probe

Rating for this product: 4 March 24, 2011

A quick deploy is paramount when in an avy recovery operation and BCA's mechanism is the fastest and easiest to use. Simply toss the probe, pull on the metal chord and the mechanism will click and lock into place once the probe is fully together. The "click!" of the mechanism is reassurance that my probe is fully deployed, locked and ready to go without falling apart on me. I don't have to guess, hope, or take extra time to make sure the chord is properly locked down, like other competitor's products.
The mechanism also allows for easy break down of the probe while keeping gloves on, which is really nice not to have to fiddle with a string.
All in all, a great and sturdy probe whose deployment mechanism will save you precious time in an avalanche event.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Easy Peasy

Backcountry Access Tracker DTS Beacon

Backcountry Access Tracker DTS Beacon

Rating for this product: 3 March 23, 2011

This beacon is very easy to use and user friendly. Very simple in design and doesn't have all of the bells and whistles of some of the others out there, but this is perfect for those who venture occasionally into the back country. Simple display has been fairly accurate in my tests and relatively quick to lock onto a signal with little interference or confusing directions.
I don't think it's a great tool for a multiple burial situation as some of the readings can go wonky and it's hard to visualize victims with the way the beacon works, but with practice it becomes sufficient for getting the job done.
If you're looking for a simple, no frills tool to stay safe in the BC and you don't anticipate being in a multiple burial situation, then the Tracker is one of the best choices out there.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Evolv Defy

Evolv Defy Climbing Shoe

Evolv Defy Climbing Shoe

Rating for this product: 3 March 16, 2011

These are the first pair of rock shoes I've owned, and I was never really impressed with them. I know they are a beginner shoe, but even as a beginner I felt they were lacking in areas. They did everything well enough and nothing terribly, but were still much to be desired in some areas.
They always felt very clunky on my feet and I didn't think they held an edge particularly well. They smeared great though and the rubber was pretty sticky for a beginner shoe looking back. I wasn't a fan of the split tongue as it always made closure of the shoe odd and felt awkward on my foot, but that's me.
Fit wise, I went down a half size from my street shoe and it was snug, bordering on too snug. Beginners beware, these will not stretch, so don't end up with a shoe that's too snug and hurts your feet. If it's uncomfortable at first try the next size up, and remember; no matter what anyone says...rock shoes aren't supposed to make your feet hurt.

For someone just looking to get into climbing, the price makes the defys are a solid choice if they fit correctly, however you may outgrow them fast. There are other options out there though, so don't limit yourself.

Nailed It? 3 Yes

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Good Choice

Sterling Evolution Velocity Rope - 9.8mm

Sterling Evolution Velocity Rope - 9.8mm

Rating for this product: 4 March 15, 2011

Sterling makes nice ropes. Runs nicely through pro and a belay device and feels good in the hand. Lighter for longer approaches which is a plus. Have even used it for glacier traversing when a lighter alternative wasn't available. It's held up great with no wear after a year of good use. It's a solid choice for a "do everything" rope

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Wow...

Five Ten Quantum Climbing Shoe

Five Ten Quantum Climbing Shoe

Rating for this product: 5 March 15, 2011

I don't give 5 stars to gear often unless it's really deserving, but the 5.10 Quantum deserves the 5/5.
Based on the popular 5.10 Anasazi, the Quantum adds a downturned profile, low volume heel cup and the amazingly sticky and tactile Stealth Mystique to it's previous popular design. These shoes are freaking weapons. I've climbed on them for a few weeks now and I have really nothing but praise for them. The aggressive turn of the shoe make tackling overhanging and technical routes a breeze, and they edge like a fiend on slab and tiny little features. They even jam in cracks relatively well. I haven't put these through a maneuver yet where I was left wanting more out of a shoe.
The Mystique rubber is some of the stickiest and best tactile transmitting rubber I've ever felt (I prefer it over the Onyx rubber as to which one is "better") so I always can feel what my feet are doing on the rock without having to guess.
Comfort-wise, I find that these are very easy to leave on for hours without having to take them off or even untie (your climbing partner will be happy if you're one of those knuckle draggers who takes your shoes off after every climb). For fit, I had to size up 1.5-2 from my street shoe and they are snug, but not painful (very important as these will not really stretch much at all). I have absurdly wide feet though, so you probably will be able to get away with less.
If i had to say something negative about the shoe, and I'm really nit picking here, is that the heel cup rubs on the back of my achilles and starts to get annoying after a while. This happens with most of the other 5.10s I've had though and gets better after a few weeks of climbing in them. It's just the way my foot is shaped. I put a small piece of climbing tape over the lip of the heel and it ceases to be a problem.
These are my new go-to shoe for general cragging and gym climbing. Wicked precise and sticky, the quantums have really made an impression on me of what a good shoe can do for your climbing; dare I say...give it a "quantum leap?" ;) A perfect shoe for those looking for a more technical shoe to supplement their first basic pair, or the seasoned climber who's been sending projects for years.

Try them if your looking for a more aggressive all-rounder, you won't be disappointed.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Great All Day Shoe

Scarpa Techno Climbing Shoe - Vibram XS Edge

Scarpa Techno Climbing Shoe - Vibram XS Edge

Rating for this product: 4 March 14, 2011

Technical enough for most things that you'll run into while being very comfortable once broken in, these are solid performers that thrive outdoors. They perform pretty well on edges, and very well in cracks. They work fine in the gym as well for those of you who don't like being that climbing partner that holds up your group by fiddling with your shoes every pitch due to comfort issues.
Rubber is not super sticky but still very good, and really transmits the feeling of the contour of the rock to your feet very well, so you know exactly what you're doing with your feet.
Original size is relatively true to a little big. Mine stretched about a quarter to half size, so take that into account and size accordingly.
For all day and multipitch sport and trad sessions, these are my go to shoe.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Good Options

Outdoor Research Cornice Mitten

Outdoor Research Cornice Mitten

Rating for this product: 4 March 7, 2011

Great warm mitt with good options for temperature control. With the removable liner, you can feel free to wear the shells over anything you want, greatly expanding the possibilities of this mitt. For really cold days, wear a PL400 or the included liner. For warmer days, use a PL100-200 or other lightweight glove, or just wear the shell. On ascents I'll use a lightweight liner then switch over to the heavier (and drier!) liner for the descent. Great for saving space and a little weight as you won't be carrying two separate gloves.
One complaint is the lack of dexterity with the included liners. I've found that a heavier glove liner in place of the mitt liner helps with this and doesn't really cut down on warmth.
OR quality is top notch and their infinite guarantee makes these mitts a great option for your outdoor winter needs.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Best Purchase I've made in a while

Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Sleeping Pad

Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Sleeping Pad

Rating for this product: 5 March 4, 2011

This is hands down the best outdoors gear related purchase I've made in easily a few years. Going from a 13 year old Thermarest Guidelite to the Neo air has saved me so much weight and space that it still blows me away every time I pack this thing into my bag.
This is hands down the most comfortable sleeping pad I've ever spent time on. I'm generally a side sleeper and the Neo air is by far the best option I've come across that allows me to sleep in my natural state in terms of comfort, packability, and weight. It feels a bit fragile at first, but it's actually quite durable.
As far as warmth, I've never had a problem with it on snow or in the cold. I've used it on snow at altitude many times (coldest being close to 0F) and haven't noticed the need for a second closed cell pad to increase insulation. Maybe I just sleep warm, or maybe my bag is bomber, but I'd bet that you won't need a closed cell pad to use with this unless you're in some pretty extremely cold conditions.
While it is a bit pricey, I've never once regretted spending the extra money. If you have an older thermarest type pad, are just using closed cells, and/or are a side sleeper and you're in the market for a new pad, the Neo Air should definitely be something to consider. Try it out at a store and I guarantee you'll fall in love with it.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Great Specialized Shoe

Five Ten Team 5.10 Climbing Shoe

Five Ten Team 5.10 Climbing Shoe

Rating for this product: 4 March 3, 2011

Picked up a pair on sale a few weeks ago for a steal and they are definitely an interesting shoe. AS was said before, very specialized shoe made more for overhanging and precise routes. I was blown away by how much these helped on some technical overhanging projects I've been working on. Rubber is wicked sticky and the thin nature of it really helps you feel the holds out with your feet and make those micro-adjustments that you need. They climb pretty well outside of that realm, but there are better options out there if you're going more vertical.
AS far as sizing goes, I had to size up 1.5 sizes for these. I'm normally a 10.5 street shoe and the 12 fit me well. I have a feeling anyone with a bit narrower feet can probably get away without sizing up as much as I did on these. Much better after a few week break in period. For reference; I'm a comfortable 43 in Scarpas.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's

March 2, 2011

These will make a good pair of first boots that will last you a long time if you take care of them. They'll be fine for any sort of mountaineering you'll do in the lower 48 provided you wear some good wool socks and the fit is right. As with any boot, try them on in a store with the type of sock you plan on wearing (not street socks!) to make sure you get the right fit.
I'd recommend against a plastic boot until you get into more extreme temperatures. I feel they're overkill for conditions you're likely to come across, especially if you're just starting out.

Nailed It? 3 Yes

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Great Harness

Arc'teryx X350a Ice Climbing Harness

Arc'teryx X350a Ice Climbing Harness

Rating for this product: 4 March 2, 2011

It really doesn't look like it but this harness is very comfortable to hang in. Great for those long approach alpine and ice routes that you'll expect to spend time weighting a harness. Also great for rock climbing and projecting. Plenty of gear loops to haul your crap. Adjustable leg loops make this harness awesome for alpine ascents as it will fit a variety of layering options. Light weight and pretty packable make this harness a good choice when weight and space are issues.

For fit purposes, I have a 33in waist and the medium fit me close in cragging clothes, so I sized up to the large. It's almost too big in cragging clothes, but works well with layers; so size accordingly to your activities.

I've used this for rock climbing (trad and sport), glacier traversing and general mountaineering and it's excelled in all of these situations. Spending the extra money is worth it if weight, space and comfort are factors for you.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Pro Product for Less

Outdoor Research Mentor Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 March 1, 2011

My Mentor jacket has been with me on top of every major peak I've summitted and every line I've skiied in the past two years. This is a workhorse jacket that will not leave you disappointed...or wet.

Regarding fit, I'm 5'9", 175 with broader shoulders and the medium works great for me. There's enough room for my base, wool midweight and down jacket underneath. The fit is close, but I don't want a big baggy jacket when I'm in the alpine.

Ventilation is great with pit zips that lead all the way down to the bottom of the jacket. All 3 exterior pockets are mesh as well, so opening them will give you added ventilation. Proshell doesn't breath very well (if at all) but it's fine if you vent the coat properly.

Waterproofness has been spot on. No complaints whatsoever.

The jacket is extremely durable. I've put this thing through some major abuse and it just keeps on doing it's thing.

The price on this jacket makes it a no-brainer. Much cheaper than some other companies who use dead birds as a logo, and the same quality. OR also backs their gear with a lifetime warranty. If something goes south with your jacket, call them up and they'll replace it for free, or refund your money, no questions asked (I've been through this process twice and the guys at OR are top notch and very friendly). If you want a quality jacket that will protect you when it's nuking, last for years, and cost less, get the Mentor.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Outdoor Research Mentor Jacket - Men's

March 1, 2011

5'9" 175 and a medium accommodates my base layer, wool midweight, and down sweater layer just fine.

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Outdoor Research Mentor Jacket - Men's

March 1, 2011

It will definitely work as a good shell layer. It doesn't breath as well as other materials or a 1-2L coat, but the venting options are very nice on it to keep you cool.
I use it as my primary alpine climbing/skiing jacket all year round, and while a little warm in the summer, it keeps me dry.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Close, but no cigar

Arc'teryx Theta SV Bib - Men's

Arc'teryx Theta SV Bib - Men's

Rating for this product: 3 March 1, 2011

These are great fitting bibs that worked awesome for most of the ski tours and mountaineering trips I threw at them. Soft top on the bib back is very comfortable and grants a free range of motion that's needed for climbing hard routes, and keeps snow out when your bombing down in the deep, or just taking in a sweet glissade.

I found that the fit is true to size in both waist and inseam. I'm 5'8" 175, 33" waist and a medium fit great with room to layer. They might look a bit long when trying them on, but remember that their intended use is with some sort of higher rising boot, which takes out the extra length. Interior leg gators are a very nice added touch to keep snow out of your boots when you're kicking steps up a gnarly face, or bombing down a line in deep powder.

Another thing I liked about these pants are that they are extremely durable. I've been poked and scraped by trees on descents, snagged crampons on the leg cuffs, and been hit in the shin repeatedly while loading sit skis and the pants show no sign of wear! Amazingly durable...I can't say that enough.

The "guarantee breathability" rating is a load of bunk in my opinion (pro shell doesn't breath no matter what Gore says) but the waist length side zips are awesome for getting air circulating in these. Zips are fully sealed too, so no water is getting through them.

Design features that I didn't like about these are the belt and the lack of pockets. The belt kind of blows and would always come undone no matter what I was doing. It wasn't a problem as the suspenders kept the pants up, and I rarely noticed it, but it was still annoying. The two pockets are in an awkward position and are very small. I would have liked to have seen at least one, preferable two, thigh pockets. Much easier to access with a coat on and if you happen to have the bib portion folded down.

These have been working hard for me for about 4 solid months now except in one area; they are not waterproof. When the weather is nuking (like if often does in the PacNW), your shell is your protection from the rain. These leaked around the knees like a sieve. Often I would feel wetness running down my shins into my boots from these leaky knees. For a 3 layer Gor-Tex proshell pant that costs this much, I expected better. I thought it was condensation at first, but testing these while not exerting myself yielded the same results. I'm not sure if I just got a lemon, but it's unacceptable for the price and I shouldn't have to re-waterproof a pant after only 4 months.

Arc'Teryx makes some top notch, bomber gear, and the Theta's were no exception until the waterproofing issue arose. Like I said before, maybe I just got a lemon, but they'll be going back for this price.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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You get what you pay for

Norrøna Lyngen CLO 100 Insulated Jacket - Men's

Norrøna Lyngen CLO 100 Insulated Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 February 24, 2011

This jacket is absolutely the nicest insulating layer I've ever owned. I used to be a down only guy, but the insulation used in this jacket has made me a believer. Primaloft One performs as well as down in my opinion with the added bonus of still keeping you warm when it's wet. No longer do I have to baby my jacket and make sure it's moisture free. The CLO packs down as much as it's other down counterparts and weighs just about the same.
This jacket is warm! I've stood atop many windy peaks here with it and have not been cold at all. Throw a hardshell over it and you're bombproof. The shell material is also very sturdy and resistant to snags and rips, much more so than some of those other "ultralight" insulation layers.
The fit is pretty true to size. I'm 5'8" 175 lb and the small works great. The collar is a bit big when zipped all the way up, but it's made so you can turtle in it when it gets really chilly out.
In all, a great piece of gear for the backcountry that is stylish to wear around town.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Awesome pants for the backcountry but size is a bit off

Norrøna Lyngen Softsthell Pant - Men's

Norrøna Lyngen Softsthell Pant - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 February 24, 2011

Great Softshell pant that is quite waterproof! Being in the Pacific NW we get our fair share of wet weather and these things have kept me dry in most conditions. I'll throw a light waterproof rain shell over them if it's really nuking, but they will keep you dry in anything up to a steady rain.
Used them for skiing and mountaineering, both of which these handle very well. Much nicer than a full on shell pant. If you're going to be moving around a lot (climbing, hiking for turns etc.) then the softshell is the way to go.
One comment about sizing; these seem to be a little off from the size chart. I have a 33in waist, so I figured a medium in these would work just fine and have some room for layering. These guys are tight in the waist without any layers on. There's no way they will fit a 34-36in waist. So take that into account when sizing and size up.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Awesome Pack

Norrøna Narvik 25L Backpack - 1525cu in

Norrøna Narvik 25L Backpack - 1525cu in

Rating for this product: 5 February 23, 2011

Great and comfortable pack. Like what was said before, it sticks to your back much better than other ski packs I've used. Honestly it doesn't feel like it's there and doesn't inhibit motion in any way.

Tons of attachment points on the outside of the pack to carry your skis in A-frame, diagonal, or flat back positions and boards in vertical or horizontal positions. Very easy, quick and secure attachment points and straps make transitioning from touring to bootpacking quite quick without a lot of fumbling around with junk. A-frame/gear loops tuck away in pockets on the pack when not in use so you won't unwillingly grab some shrubbery on your descent.

Specific compartment for avy tools and sleeves for your probe and shovel handle keep the inside of the pack neat and organized, and save time in a rescue situation as all your tools are in one place. Top zipper into the main compartment is a little small and can sometimes be hard to get things in and out of the pack (especially if you hove a pair of goggles in the top goggle pocket), but just using the side access zipper alleviates this.

Integrated bladder pocket and insulated hose sleeve are pretty slick. I haven't been able to test this feature yet, but the concept is well thought out and nicely designed.

All in all this pack is an awesome tool and is worth the little bit of extra money. You won't be disappointed.

Edit: Don't be deceived by the weight in the stats over there on the left. It's not 35lb!

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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