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Snoqualmie backcountry
G3 Zenoxide Ski
January 3, 2011
lunch under bluebird skies
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Arc'teryx I340a Harness - Men's
May 30, 2012
I was in your situation recently- between M and L- and I ordered the M, thinking I'd just have to loosen the belt. Unfortunately, being on the very large end of the fit for the M harness was extremely uncomfortable! When I did try on a Large, the difference in terms of comfort was remarkable.
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Rab Fusion Softshell Pant - Men's
April 15, 2011
Yes, these will be a very good choice for mountaineering. They're enough of a shell that you can wallow around in the snow without getting wet, but breathable enough that (with some judicious zip-venting) you can work really hard and finish the day dry.
I've used these for everything from mountain biking in the rain to backcountry skiing, some mountaineering, to hiking and riding the lifts. The only time I've found myself wanting something else was when I was riding lifts inbounds and got stuck on a chairlift in a high wind- these are great shells, but they're not a hard shell.
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Mountain Hardwear Splitter Backpack - 2150-2350cu in
July 28, 2010
You can fit a fairly large trad rack (18 cams, a couple sets of nuts, tricams, a dozen draws, slings, etc), a 60m rope, harness, shoes, and some clothes (a shell, hat, etc) and that's getting pretty full.
The pack rides comfortably when loaded this way- as others have noted, if you try to rack a lot of weight on the frame with nothing under it (via the racking loops) it will sag, but if you support that weight using the internal compression panel and the external compression straps, it works well.
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Arc'teryx Bora 95 Backpack - 5250-6040cu in
July 28, 2010
http://www.arcteryx.com/pack-fit.aspx
The folks at Arcteryx do a nice job of explaining how to size and fit a pack on their site, as well.
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Black Diamond ATC Guide
June 8, 2009
The short answer is "Yes", this device is more versatile- you can use this as a standard belay device, with or without the braking grooves (depending on how you feed the rope), you can use it with two ropes at once (vital if you're rapping off the anchors) and you can use it (as with the GriGri) as an autoblocking haul/belay device. It is more tolerant of rope diameter variation than the GriGri.
That said, the GriGri does a couple things better: 1) it passively protects a climber in cases where an ATC won't (tho as noted elsewhere, you should always treat any belay device as though it required you to pay attention) and 2) it's simpler to configure and operate, since it's sorta automatic and has only one configuration.
If you can only have one belay device, let this be it- get a GriGri later for the added convenience a GriGri gets you.
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Petzl Grigri Belay Device
June 6, 2009
I don't think the soundness of the device should be your concern here- if you're taking big falls, the GriGri is unlikely to be the point of failure in your system. I'd be more concerned about your top point of protection (which will get 1.6x the force you experience in a fall), your belayer (who should be anchored if you've got a significant weight disparity- she'l get .6x your falling force minimum), or any number of points in your system that are weaker than the grigri.
I strongly suspect that if you load your system to the point that the grigri fails, you have other, more serious problems- like, your spine (or that of your belayer, or some other part of your system) will have disintegrated under the load already.
Be careful. If you're a lot bigger than your belay partner (I've got 80lbs on my wife, so I'm hip) you've got more to do to protect them- this is easy to learn, and I highly recommend it.
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Mad Rock Con-flict Strap Climbing Shoe DO NOT USE
June 5, 2009
About the same. I had them both in the same size, and wouldn't recommend any up-or-down sizing.
Expect the conflict to be a little less comfortable at first, as it is more built-up around the toebox and will break in a bit more slowly.
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