Grivel Easy Slider with Spring Leash

April 24, 2012

If I recall correctly the old pommel can be taken apart and clamped on the shaft with a screw while the new one is one piece. I am guessing that the old one would work on both older and newer ice axe models while the new one is not. (See my review.)

The old one did not have a substantial eye for attaching a leash but had a small loop to keep it close to the axe head.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Not backward compatible with Air Tech Evo

Grivel Easy Slider with Spring Leash

Rating for this product: 4 April 24, 2012

Please be aware that this slider is not compatible with pre-2009 models of Grivel Air Tech Evo ice axe (models with friction strips on the shaft, prior to the rubber handle) because it is not possible to get the pommel past the rivet at the bottom of the shaft.

Seems fine otherwise.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Poorly attached sling

Grivel Speedy Ice Screw

Grivel Speedy Ice Screw

Rating for this product: 2 February 3, 2012

While the screw itself seems to be performing just fine I have found the sling attachment quite disappointing, mostly because of how the black plastic ring is rather tightly fitting the screw tube. This causes two issues:

First, the crank arm is freely wiggling on the screw tube, not staying strictly perpendicular, so it tends to catch on the bulge where the sling is attached to the ring. (You can even see this happening on Grivel's own promotion video clip.) If the ring was loose then this would not be happening nearly as much.

The other problem is that if the sling is either completely unweighted or the direction of any pulling force is not perpendicular to the screw tube then the ring tends to lock up on the screw tube. (This is easy to demonstrate by trying to turn the screw while pulling mildly on the sling at 45-60 degrees away from the screw.)

Both issues cause the ring to turn with the screw, as opposed to spinning freely, ultimately winding the sling (and the carabiner, and the rope) onto the screw tube like a winch. A frustrating experience.

You can skip the main touted benefit of the integrated sling and treat Speedy like a regular screw by not having the rope attached when placing or removing it, which means that the sling with the carabiner are now "just" rotating around, without any winding effect. The only remaining value of Speedy is then the weight saving over a traditional quickdraw setup, which I am not sure is worth the extra cost.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Grivel G14 Crampon

December 24, 2011

I use Nepals with Grivel new-matic binding and never had a problem. I concur with James Jenden though that if Nepals are your only climbing boots then the automatic binding is a better combination.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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La Sportiva Glacier Mountaineering Boot - Men's

December 24, 2011

I would categorize them as a cross between heavy-duty backpacking boots and non-technical mountaineering boots. They are notably stiffer, taller, and heavier than Asolo 520. I believe they have a half-length steel shank. They are missing the toe welt but I have used them with both strap-on and hybrid crampons for years. I primarily use them for easier mountaineering with longer approaches while Asolo 520 are my primary hiking-only boots (other than in summer, when I use even lighter boots). My Glaciers were made in Italy while Asolo 520 in Romania. Both have been holding up well so far.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Rab Atlas 750 Sleeping Bag: 10-Degree Down - Women's

September 19, 2011

550+ is the European rating of this bag. This rating is different (lower) than the US rating. As an example, European 750+ is US 850+.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Grivel G12 Crampon

September 7, 2011

The images are all mixed up. The crampon body looks like the Cramp-O-Matic image. The New-Classic image is an older version of the G12 crampon. The New-Matic image looks like an older version of the G10 crampon.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Grivel Spring Leash with Screw Lock

August 31, 2011

Could anybody comment on the durability of this? I am particularly concerned about for how long this will retain the "spring", before degrading to just a static leash.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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La Sportiva Trango S EVO GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's

August 23, 2011

No break-in time required for mine. Very comfortable for summer snow climbs, including long approaches, and good on rock so they should perform well in your scenario. That said, I would personally wear something less stiff (and less expensive).

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Grivel Plume Quick Easy Quickdraw - 5-Pack

June 24, 2011

@Hunter Lea:
According the respective web sites the Grivel Plume quickdraw is 2.75oz while BD Freewire is 3.5oz so I am not sure what weight penalty you are referring to.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Decent backpack but not for mountaineering

CAMP USA H5 Backpack

CAMP USA H5 Backpack

Rating for this product: 3 April 12, 2011

Pros:
* Good, general purpose pack
* Adjustable back
* Plenty of pockets, including three substantial outside pockets
* Plenty of straps
* Removable hip belt

Cons:
* The pack itself is not waterproof. The provided rain cover could take care of stormy weather but it is not practical for snow climbs.
* The mesh padding on the back is way too soft. If you carry a loaded pack the padding will flatten out substantially, sealing off the ventilation channels. (Compare with Gregory or Lowe packs.)
* I have not found the advertised "helmet compartment". The large front pocket does not expand out enough to be it. With some effort I have managed to squeeze a climbing helmet into it but the pocket expanded inward into the pack as much as outward so if the pack was full the pocket would be too small.
* Feeble spiral zipper on the sleeping bag compartment.
* Removable lid does not have a built-in waist belt.
* Just one ice axe loop.

P.S. The blue color is much lighter than the web image suggests.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Good idea, weak design

Mountain Hardwear Scrambler Backpack - 1950cu in

Mountain Hardwear Scrambler Backpack - 1950cu in

Rating for this product: 2 March 6, 2011

I was looking for a lightweight daypack of about 25 liters that could be stowed easily in a larger backpack and I had high hopes for the scramber. Its high-level characteristics were right but the execution not as much.

Removing the frame sheet to compress or lighten up the pack is not practical: The removal slit is half way up the back of the pack, not on the top, so the sheet needs to be essentially folded over to insert both its ends first, which is cumbersome and it makes me question its longevity. Do not even think of removing the sheet temporarily to sit on it without emptying the whole pack first. Further downside is that the pack outside material between the frame sheet and someone's back is just a mesh so without the frame sheet the pack back is no longer water resistant. The water will run through the mesh and then through the internal sheet removal slit straight into the middle of the pack.

The main hexagonal clasp is another problem: On the pack I had in my hand the upper webbing loop for the clasp was made so tight that it was difficult to get the clasp through. Trying it with cold, numb fingers would be a challenge.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Black Diamond Raven Ultra Ice Axe

February 22, 2011

Honestly I would not consider either for general mountaineering. The Grivel has a negative pick angle, which makes it useless if you had to deal with steep ice. The Raven has more general purpose pick and adze but the lack of real spike can be a problem in some situations.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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CAMP USA - Cassin Piu 2 Belay Device

February 17, 2011

I am not a metallurgist but is not the horizontal aluminum deformation on the inside of the center wall (clearly visible in the picture) a little disconcerting?

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Solid

DMM Deadman Snow Anchor

DMM Deadman Snow Anchor

Rating for this product: 4 December 26, 2010

I use it mainly as a top-rope anchor and I am very happy with its performance. When placed in spring snow it feels like it sits in concrete. No movement whatsoever after the initial tug. It is a little bulky to pack, especially because of the steel cable.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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High-elevation trekking

Marmot Bastione Component Jacket - Men's

Marmot Bastione Component Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 July 10, 2010

This is one valuable multi-purpose jacket for high-elevation trekking (14K+ ft.): The outer shell provides good rain/snow protection during the day and the liner comes handy after the sunset, when the temperature plummets, or the early mornings, when the body does not want to trade the sleeping bag. For the last two seasons it also served well as my summitting jacket in the Andes. The hood will accommodate a climbing helmet.
I use a lighter, less bulky/warm combo for summer backpacking in the Rockies.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Spring-time snow climbs

La Sportiva Glacier EVO Mountaineering Boot - Women's

La Sportiva Glacier EVO Mountaineering Boot - Women's

Rating for this product: 5 July 8, 2010

Great boots for spring-time snow climbs with longer approaches: Rigid enough for crampons yet comfortable for the approach. The leather definitely needed additional water-proofing. As with most heavy leather boots, they need to be taken out a few times before spending a full day in them.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Dependable crampon

Petzl Vasak  12-Point Mountaineering Crampon

Petzl Vasak 12-Point Mountaineering Crampon

Rating for this product: 4 July 8, 2010

...for general mountaineering. I have been quite happy with them but they lack some of the finesse of Grivel G12's. (See my review of G12's if you care for details.)

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Just great in every aspect

Grivel G12  Crampon

Grivel G12 Crampon

Rating for this product: 5 July 7, 2010

I have been using these crampons (with the hybrid binding) for four seasons and they are still in great shape. I have really appreciated some of the details: (1) The heel points are a little flat, rather than pointed, so they brake better. (2) The heel lever adjustment is on the inside so there is less of a chance to damage it when wallowing in snow-covered rock. (3) The strap buckle openings are round, not rectangular, which helps with loosening when partially frozen. (4) The buckle has a Hypalon tab so it is easier to loosen it with gloves on. (5) The antibott plates flex so they are more effective than rigid ones.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Grivel G12 Crampon

July 7, 2010

More specifically, the front section can slide back along the bar towards the heel section so the crampon gets shorter. On the other hand the front basket is rather stiff and cannot be easily folded.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Solid helmet

Grivel Salamander Helmet

Grivel Salamander Helmet

Rating for this product: 4 July 7, 2010

This easy-to-adjust helmet is very comfortable, despite being slightly on the heavier side, and it offers decent ventilation. Two minor issues: The internal soft padding tends to peel off after while (but it can be glued back on easily) and the headlamp bungee cords are not as secure as the traditional flat catches on Petzl helmets.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Poor design

Grivel Axe Guard

Grivel Axe Guard

Rating for this product: 1 July 7, 2010

I have purchased a pair to replace my aging Salewa guards. The material appears to be superior to the Salewa's soft rubber but unfortunately there is a related design flaw in the guard: The material is stiff so the connecting spring is prone to fatigue where it joins the inflexible adze section. Of the two guards purchased, one broke on its own after a few days on an axe (the sustained spring tension was enough to tear it apart) and the second one broke soon after that in the same spot. Later I have seen a few still in a store and they already developed cracks, again in the same spot.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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La Sportiva Glacier EVO Mountaineering Boot - Women's

July 6, 2010

I have not encountered any issues using the boot with Grivel G12's with standard bars for snow climbs with limited front-pointing.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Great on ice, not so good for plunging

Grivel Matrix Light Ice Tool

Grivel Matrix Light Ice Tool

Rating for this product: 4 November 18, 2008

This tool works really well on alpine ice. It is much lighter than traditional ice tools yet plenty durable and the X-Monster pick excels. Due to the straight lower shaft it can be also used for plunging into the snow but here it does not perform as well as a traditional ice axe: The shaft bend is substantial so the tool tends to rotate around its shaft axis when pulled on. (In contrast, Air Tech Evo does not do it.) Also, the pick is very tall so it is harder to grip if you have smaller hands. Of course none of these matter much if you plan to use it mostly as an ice tool.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Good but...

Black Diamond Venom Adze Ice Axe

Black Diamond Venom Adze Ice Axe

Rating for this product: 4 November 3, 2008

...does not swing as nicely as Grivel Air Tech Evo. I also have a concern about the the rubber grip when plunging it into hard snow because the grip is not completely flush with the shaft. I really like the replaceable picks though.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Light and durable

Grivel Air Tech Evo Ice Axe with Easy Slider

Grivel Air Tech Evo Ice Axe with Easy Slider

Rating for this product: 5 November 3, 2008

I have used it over two dozen times and it shows only minimal signs of wear. Plunges and swings nicely and the shaft bend is handy on ice. Works well on steep alpine ice. (I have used a pair of them on a 70 degree ice slope and had no funny feelings about it.) The pick comes already sharpened, unlike some other axes.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Feature-rich

Grivel Alpine Backpack - 35-55L

Grivel Alpine Backpack - 35-55L

Rating for this product: 4 November 3, 2008

This backpack is really loaded with great features. Way too many to name here so just read the PDF flyer on Grivel web site. Before I get into the negatives let me emphasize that I have looked high and low and did not find a mountaineering backpack with better features. Now about the issues: (1) A major problem for me is that it does not fit my long torso. When positioned properly on my shoulders the hip belt ends up at my waist and there is no way to adjust that. In comparison, Deuter Guide fits well. (2) The tool carry sleeve on the back is too wide to accommodate axes with pronounced shaft bend (think Grivel Matrix and to some degree Grivel Air Tech Evo). The sleeve will force the picks to be pretty much horizontal so the tool shafts are in turn leaning towards each other (instead of standing upright), which precludes using the loops to tie down the shafts. The sleeve would work well with straight shafts. (3) For some reason the lid is cut slightly narrower than the back frame so it cannot easily cover the entire top of the backpack. The fabric of the extender tends to "leak" from under the lid. (4) The yellow fabric of the extender is very light and not waterproof and this fact, when combined with the previous bullet, is partially reducing the advantages of the great fabric used on the main body. Again, the review might come across as if I am slamming the pack but that is not the intent. If it fit my long torso I would still go for it.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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