Mad Rock Mad-Lock Belay Device

June 4, 2010

At the end of the day, this is just a quirky tube device, and does everything a reverso or guideATC can do. The unique feature is that horn that is used to add extra friction when rapping on skinny lines, which would require an extra carabiner for most rappel brakes. So if all you want this for is canyoneering, it could be good since it has the most variable friction of all the tube devices. Otherwise, on multi-pitch you might want a simpler device for belaying off the anchor.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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All-Encompassing

Book: Freedom of the Hills 8th Edition - Paperback

Book: Freedom of the Hills 8th Edition - Paperback

Rating for this product: 4 June 2, 2010

This book should be the bible of every outdoor enthusiast's library. That said, the broad nature of the text does make it clumsy to use sometimes, and definitely lacks clarification on the thought process that should go into each technique. Everything is in there though, just take it with a grain of salt, and make sure that you supplement your reading with more specialty texts as well.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Like its not even there

Petzl Elios Climbing Helmet - 2011

Petzl Elios Climbing Helmet - 2011

Rating for this product: 5 May 29, 2010

This lid seems bomber enough for the job, without weighing a ton. I haven't taken any hits while wearing this yet, but I'm not too worried about it. I don't use it as a sit pad, but otherwise haven't felt the need to protect it from the other contents of my pack. Adjustment for beanies is no problem, and makes quick changes easy. I haven't ever had another helmet to compare, but I can't imagine ever wanting something different.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Simple, lightweight

Brunton Base Plate 8010G Compass

Brunton Base Plate 8010G Compass

Rating for this product: 4 May 28, 2010

This compass does exactly what is advertised, for not much weight. The no-frills design is ideal, adding none of the weight of competitors that have cases and signal mirrors, while incorporating nice features like magnification and illumination without adding weight. I would recommend this for people that want simple orienteering without any of the extras.

Nailed It? 2 Yes

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Black Diamond Stopper Set Pro #1-13

May 26, 2010

I think that the product literature specifies "aid only" for most small gear with low strength ratings (2kN is only 450lbs of force) This applies to all pro, active and passive with low strength ratings. That said, people still climb on small pro when its the only thing they can place, and while I have never fallen on anything with a strength rating below 6kN, I have seen others fall on small pieces and not pull/break the piece.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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CAMP USA Nylon Tricam

May 5, 2010

Do people use the new .125 and .25 for aid? Because the strength rating on those is astonishingly low. I was intrigued at the thought of having sizes less than pink for trad climbing, but it sounds like they might not really be up to the challenge. Has anybody actually taken a whipper and had one of these hold? Any epics about a failure?

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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CAMP USA Nylon Tricam

May 5, 2010

Everybody seems to get all worked up about tri-cams being hard to remove, but I have seen multiple people not know the proper removal technique. When set to cam, all you have to do to remove them is give them a good whack with the nut tool near the top of the rails where the sling connects to the piece. This nearly always dislodges your tri-cam.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes

April 28, 2010

Wires last for as long as you avoid fraying and kinking them (they could be done after a few times out, or keep going for decades, just depends). Dyneema has something like a 3yr lifespan, but opinions vary wildly. That said, dyneema slung hexes are about a jillon times more useful than those on wire, because they can acctually cam. Avoid those on wires, the extra $20 you have to spend every three years to resling them is well worth it.

Nailed It? 2 Yes

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Serviceable

Sierra Designs Microlight Pant - Men's

Sierra Designs Microlight Pant - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 April 27, 2010

These have a permanent spot in my backpack for biking to and from work, and have never left me wet at the end of the ride. They probably won't stay waterproof all day, but they do the job for very little weight. They are a great price point rainpant

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Perfect when its cold

The North Face Inlux Insulated Jacket - Men's

The North Face Inlux Insulated Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 April 27, 2010

It is perfect for when its way cold outside, I like it for winter days in the sierras. It is so convenient being able to wear just one jacket when you know that it is going to be really cold all day.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Wide Range of Uses

The North Face Apex Bionic Jacket - Men's

The North Face Apex Bionic Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 April 27, 2010

This jacket is exactly as advertised: 3-season all-round use. I wear it biking to work on chilly days, windy days, and days where there is some drizzle. I stay warm and dry, while able to shed any excess heat. Its a bit heavy (hey, its softshell), but is great for climbing on super chilly mornings or for bringing on backpacking trips where you only want to bring one jacket. The water resistance wears out after a few washes, but can be rejuvenated. Well worth the price, and a steal in the discontinued colors.

Nailed It? 2 Yes

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Great All-Around

Black Diamond ATC Guide

Black Diamond ATC Guide

Rating for this product: 5 April 25, 2010

There isn't really a belay/rappel situation where this does not shine, the multitude of configurations allows for anything you might need.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Best Hexes

DMM Torque Nuts

DMM Torque Nuts

Rating for this product: 5 April 25, 2010

These cover a great size range, and cam like you wouldn't believe. I have used the #4 on every climb since I got them. The double length sling really does the trick when you need to prevent rope drag, there are just so many options. They cover the same spectrum as the #5-9 Rockcentrics with one less piece - a real weight savings!

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Take that pin scars!

DMM Alloy Offset Set #7-11

DMM Alloy Offset Set #7-11

Rating for this product: 5 April 25, 2010

Tried these out last weekend in Berkeley, where back in the day the sierra club used to practice destroying cracks with pins. These fit like champs where my metolius nuts just would refuse to go. I think that you still need a second set of nuts with these, but they are super bomber nonetheless.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Functional

Black Diamond Focus Harness

Black Diamond Focus Harness

Rating for this product: 4 April 19, 2010

This harness is ok, but after a couple times wedging your hip into a chimney, the plastic holding the gear loops in an outward position seems to break and not point outwards anymore. They are still attached, and it doesn't really affect anything, its just annoying. Otherwise, it does everything you could want a harness to do, but is just kinda in the middle as far as weight goes. Find it on clearance at REI or something and its a great deal.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Versatile

Sterling Nylon Sewn Runners - 17mm

Sterling Nylon Sewn Runners - 17mm

Rating for this product: 5 April 18, 2010

Cheap and useful for many applications. They manage to maintain the same strength as other runners without as many bar-tacks as other brands.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Solid

Black Diamond Oval Carabiner

Black Diamond Oval Carabiner

Rating for this product: 4 April 18, 2010

This biner is a nice classic, and is the ultimate in versatility. Also, as a bonus, the smooth shape is good for stacking biners in slackline rigging.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Great Organization

Metolius Multi Loop Gear Sling

Metolius Multi Loop Gear Sling

Rating for this product: 5 April 18, 2010

I like how this sling keeps gear separated and organized so that you always know where to reach for a certain piece. I haven't had any problems with this sling, it is comfy and easy to use.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Good aggressive shoe

Mad Rock Mugen Tech Climbing Shoe - Men's

Mad Rock Mugen Tech Climbing Shoe - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 April 16, 2010

These things have tiny edge-crushing power, but don't smear worth a damn. Go figure. If you ever want to do well on an overhanging route, without killing your wallet, then get these. Great for toe and heel hooking, with decent stretch and good friction. You can't go wrong with these guys, and while they are rough on your feet like any other shoe, they are still tolerable on longer single routes. Just don't try to belay in them.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Bright

Black Diamond Gizmo Headlamp

Black Diamond Gizmo Headlamp

Rating for this product: 5 April 16, 2010

This is a pretty reliable, resilient, and light headlamp. Get, one - you won't regret it. Better yet, get two, since the best way to carry spare batteries is in a second headlamp for when you drop yours off the top of a rappel.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Do-everything pack

The North Face Recon Backpack - 2015cu in

The North Face Recon Backpack - 2015cu in

Rating for this product: 5 April 15, 2010

I bike to lab with notebooks, my computer, and textbooks for whatever class I'm TAing, then load it up with my rack after work and hit the crag. It carries up to about 20lb, and I have even stuffed my 10.2mm rope into it for belaying the second up a windy multipitch. It is just big enough for me to take on an overnight with a bivy, and the computer sleeve/hydration port is well incorporated both for keeping your electronics safe and you hydrated. This bag has all the right features, and does everything you want one after another.

Nailed It? 2 Yes

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Fits its role well

Five Ten Gambit Climbing Shoe - Men's

Five Ten Gambit Climbing Shoe - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 April 15, 2010

All day comfort, with unbelievably sticky soles for great friction on any desperate smear. The problem arises when you can't edge very well in these things, and suddenly the sticky smearing becomes really important. Definitely a good first shoe, and the shoe to wear if you want to climb all day and feel your toes afterwards.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Never leave the belay without the pink

CAMP USA Nylon Tricam

CAMP USA Nylon Tricam

Rating for this product: 5 April 15, 2010

You can probably find a place on every lead where the .5 fits and nothing else is secure. Bring it. If you want to cut down on the mid-sized pieces, the 1-2 sizes can pretty much fit wherever a similar sized cam could for a fraction of the weight and triple the fiddling. Might be worth it if you know that your climbing will have some decent stances for placements. Oh, and you never will need a flexible stem cam for pockets/horizontals again, these do that better.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Works well

Black Diamond ATC Belay Device

Black Diamond ATC Belay Device

Rating for this product: 4 April 15, 2010

Works great, but is unspectacular. You can get the same thing for $6 less in the CAMP equivalent, but both work and work well. No complaints, no surprises.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Works

CAMP USA Shell Belay Device

CAMP USA Shell Belay Device

Rating for this product: 4 April 15, 2010

I lost my BD ATC awhile back, and decided that getting the cheapest ATC possible would be best for the next time I lose it. This is the ticket - has slightly more friction, but I'm not sure who is going to complain about that. The only time that it even comes into play is with gnarly 11mm gym ropes, but otherwise is the same as an ATC with a better catch.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Nice

Millet Belay Device Jacket - Men's

Millet Belay Device Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 April 15, 2010

I want to give this 4 1/2 stars - this jacket has become the warmest thing I own, and works perfectly as a belay jacket anywhere from cold crags to snowy summits. The main problem is in the advertising - it doesn't have a pass-through pocket unless you are willing to do some surgery, and I'm not. Otherwise, it works great and won't let you down.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Good action, moderate weight

CAMP USA Orbit Wire Carabiner

CAMP USA Orbit Wire Carabiner

Rating for this product: 4 April 15, 2010

These are an awesome price point, but there are just lighter options for this size of carabiner. They clip great, and have a smooth enough spine to even make a rappel brake out of if you want. Great all around.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Must have

Black Diamond OvalWire Carabiner

Black Diamond OvalWire Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 April 15, 2010

You need them for racking, and these are most definitely the most versatile carabiners you can buy.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Still some uses for the Nylon

Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runners

Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runners

Rating for this product: 5 April 15, 2010

Anytime I sling a natural feature or thread a rock channel, I like having these beefier nylon slings compared to the newer fabrics, really does not move as much. That, and in a pinch you can actually cut and re-tie these, or use one for a klemheist. Don't try that with dyneema.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Better than BD

Metolius Super Chalk

Metolius Super Chalk

Rating for this product: 5 April 14, 2010

Don't know how to describe it, but I really like this better than BD white gold. Hands just stay grippier, can't be a bad thing on slopers.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Best for the price

Mad Rock Ultralight Wire Quickdraw

Mad Rock Ultralight Wire Quickdraw

Rating for this product: 5 April 14, 2010

No other QD can come close to the price/weight ratio of these puppies, with slick gates to boot.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Wide gate opening

Omega Pacific Jake Carabiner

Omega Pacific Jake Carabiner

Rating for this product: 4 April 14, 2010

Never wanted to drop the money on one of these, but picked one up as booty at the top of a rap. I really am intrigued by how wider the gate is than a normal HMS. On the master point of a cordelette, this makes things that much quicker and efficient.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Great Mid-Sized Pieces

Wild Country Anodized Rockcentrics Set #3-9

Wild Country Anodized Rockcentrics Set #3-9

Rating for this product: 4 April 14, 2010

These are kind of in the middle of the spectrum as far as ease and security of placements. They aren't as awesome as the spendy new torque nuts, which are essentially an improvement on this already nifty design, but knock the pants off the wire slung straight BD hexes. I have placed them in interesting and what I thought were marginal placements only to be surprised at how well they resisted the rope movement. The sling prevents rope movement problems almost every time, but not as well as the torque nuts. Their awesome shape creates excellent camming action against the rock, and really locks them into placements, but again not as well as torque nuts. Why would I recommend this set then? Well, these come in a full range of sizes, and are roughly half the price of the new torque nuts. Consider these as the first buy, and then torque nuts for doubles when you do long alpine routes.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Bombproof

Metolius Safe Tech All-Around Harness

Metolius Safe Tech All-Around Harness

Rating for this product: 5 April 14, 2010

This is the best all-around harness I have owned. Now consider that I have only ever owned this harness - it has lasted 7 years of I'd say bi-weekly climbing without any real wear! You would have to be a real big wall junkie to thrash this harness. In terms of being able to use this harness for everything from gym to big wall aid - you can do it. No other harness can say that. It might not be the trendiest thing when you go to the gym, or as featherweight as some sport specific harnesses, as feature laden as big wall harnesses, or as spartan as alpine harnesses, but if you could only afford one, this is it. No contest, this thing is totally bomber. Comfortable, durable, and multi-use. When you realize that they make every piece of this harness full strength to prevent any chance of falling as long as something is clipped, it just adds icing on the cake.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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One of the better shapes

Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut Packaged Set #1-10

Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut Packaged Set #1-10

Rating for this product: 5 April 14, 2010

The dual curve of these nuts keeps them in constrictions. I have never had one dislodge for any reason, and they fit most placements well, especially in granite. This is especially important considering that they are the lightest nuts around, meaning that they will need to be carried in the alpine. Tiny crystals that would break off for other nuts seem to do great with these, the triangulation of forces that is created keeps these nuts in where they should not. The full set will hook you up, and getting anodized HB offsets after will really round out your selection of nuts. BD stoppers just don't compare with their straight sides, and other companies have the curve going the wrong way to make placements easy.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Never lose your nut tool again

Wild Country Pro-Key Nut Tool

Wild Country Pro-Key Nut Tool

Rating for this product: 5 April 14, 2010

This might be the heaviest nut tool out there, but the attachment system is so much less bulky than the normal accessory cord method that it is worth it. Add in that it has a huge area for you to bash your palm on, and the head of the pick reaches into the smallest cracks, and you have the cadillac of nut tools.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Surprisingly Cushy

Black Diamond Impact Crash Pad

Black Diamond Impact Crash Pad

Rating for this product: 5 December 29, 2008

Bought this awhile back as my first boulder pad, and I was really impressed with how well this handles some of the higher problems that me and my buddies have tried. A few weeks ago, my buddy bailed from a tough topout move ~20ft high, and landed shoulder first on the pad. I figured that we would be using the pad as a stretcher on the way out, but he was able to pop up without injury. Of course it requires a good spotter considering that it does not cover that much area, but we always need good spotters, right?

Nailed It? 2 Yes

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