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Mad Rock Mad-Lock Belay Device
June 4, 2010
At the end of the day, this is just a quirky tube device, and does everything a reverso or guideATC can do. The unique feature is that horn that is used to add extra friction when rapping on skinny lines, which would require an extra carabiner for most rappel brakes. So if all you want this for is canyoneering, it could be good since it has the most variable friction of all the tube devices. Otherwise, on multi-pitch you might want a simpler device for belaying off the anchor.
Nailed It? 0 Yes
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Black Diamond Stopper Set Pro #1-13
May 26, 2010
I think that the product literature specifies "aid only" for most small gear with low strength ratings (2kN is only 450lbs of force) This applies to all pro, active and passive with low strength ratings. That said, people still climb on small pro when its the only thing they can place, and while I have never fallen on anything with a strength rating below 6kN, I have seen others fall on small pieces and not pull/break the piece.
Nailed It? 1 Yes
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CAMP USA Nylon Tricam
May 5, 2010
Do people use the new .125 and .25 for aid? Because the strength rating on those is astonishingly low. I was intrigued at the thought of having sizes less than pink for trad climbing, but it sounds like they might not really be up to the challenge. Has anybody actually taken a whipper and had one of these hold? Any epics about a failure?
Nailed It? 0 Yes
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CAMP USA Nylon Tricam
May 5, 2010
Everybody seems to get all worked up about tri-cams being hard to remove, but I have seen multiple people not know the proper removal technique. When set to cam, all you have to do to remove them is give them a good whack with the nut tool near the top of the rails where the sling connects to the piece. This nearly always dislodges your tri-cam.
Nailed It? 0 Yes
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Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes
April 28, 2010
Wires last for as long as you avoid fraying and kinking them (they could be done after a few times out, or keep going for decades, just depends). Dyneema has something like a 3yr lifespan, but opinions vary wildly. That said, dyneema slung hexes are about a jillon times more useful than those on wire, because they can acctually cam. Avoid those on wires, the extra $20 you have to spend every three years to resling them is well worth it.
Nailed It? 2 Yes
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