Ortovox F1 Focus Avalanche Beacon

January 16, 2010

All beacons work on the same frequency, but over time transceivers can begin to have their frequency change. Basically there is a crystal that is inside that dictates the frequency. All transceivers have to be within a certain frequency range to be able to be sold. (I think 10-15 kHz) Pieps makes one that can check to make sure that the frequency range is adequate, no matter who makes the transceiver. That is, if I have a Pieps I can check all the people I am skiing with to be sure their transceivers, no matter who makes it. This is especially useful if you are with someone who has an older transceiver.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Black Diamond Cyborg Pro Crampons

August 29, 2009

They are absolutely fine for glacial hiking, but they are heavier. If you are doing short sections of near vertical ice (around 15-20 feet or so, around 50-80 degree) something like the Contact would suit your needs much better. If you are sticking mostly to big mountain with less technical terrain, I would go with the contact. I used them almost exclusively on Mt Baker and in other areas of the North Cascades.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Great light boot

Scarpa Charmoz GTX Boot - Men's

Scarpa Charmoz GTX Boot - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 May 11, 2009

I love these boots for warmer weather alpine climbing. I used them in the Cascades last summer, and they don't have too much wear. They were comfortable for the hike, and I trusted them enough to climb up to 5.5 sections. They don't have a ton of insulation, so I wouldn't use them on early season climbing, especially with very firm snow. They do work well with strap crampons, but they won't kick steps as well as a plastic boot. They are a great lightweight boot, and I have had to climb short sections of 75-80 degree ice with them. I wouldn't use them for more sustained steep sections though. The edging is great. I have an average to slightly wide forefoot, and a narrower heel, and they fit very well.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Great in small sizes

Metolius Ultralight TCU

Metolius Ultralight TCU

Rating for this product: 4 May 11, 2009

I use the three smallest sizes (00, 0, 1) instead of C3's. I love the light weight, and I think the trigger is a lot easier to use on such a small cam. I have big fingers, and it can be tough to place or clean small cams. The design allows cleaning by pulling on the trigger with a nut tool if needed. The cams hold well, though as with any very small cam there isn't a lot of surface area.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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great pad

Therm-a-Rest Prolite Plus Sleeping Pad

Therm-a-Rest Prolite Plus Sleeping Pad

Rating for this product: 5 May 11, 2009

I have used this in the Cascades while snowcamping, and it works great. I am a 6' guy, but actually use the women's full length pad. It is slightly shorter, but weighs a little less, and is a lot warmer than the mens. I don't usually stretch out fully when sleeping, so I fit on the pad completely, and I also put the climbing rope at my feet to add warmth in case I do stretch out. It's a great pad for those who want more warmth than a foam pad can provide.

Nailed It? 4 Yes

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Black Diamond Contact Strap Crampon

December 5, 2008

You would have a difficult time getting these to fit on snowboard boots. I can use them with Koflach plastics, but that is about the limit of them.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Great warm glove

Black Diamond Samurai Ice Glove

Black Diamond Samurai Ice Glove

Rating for this product: 5 February 7, 2008

This glove has proven to be good with dexterity, allowing me to manage ropes and manipulate ice tools all while keeping me warm. It has also been great with water, keeping my hands dry even with water running freely over the ice. In my time in the Adirondacks I give it a big warm thumbs up!

Nailed It? 3 Yes

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Solid crampons

Black Diamond Cyborg Crampons

Black Diamond Cyborg Crampons

Rating for this product: 5 February 7, 2008

As usual BD comes out with a great product. Great solid platform for vertical ice, and maneuverable enough for glacier travel. The points perform well on all ice I have encountered, and the adjustability makes it easy to swap out on different boots. The antiballing plates perform well. I never have a problem while I watch my friends collect snow underfoot.

Nailed It? 3 Yes

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Great all purpose tool

Black Diamond Viper Ice Tool

Black Diamond Viper Ice Tool

Rating for this product: 5 February 7, 2008

The viper has great geometry for all ice, including clearing ice bulges or reaching to an overhang. The fang makes for easy leashless climbing, and dry tooling is comfortable as well. My only gripe is how difficult it is to get a leash for the 2007 model.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Not sold on them

Five Ten Gambit Climbing Shoe - Men's

Five Ten Gambit Climbing Shoe - Men's

Rating for this product: 3 February 7, 2008

I tried two pairs, and neither seemed to be quite right. I loved my old Five Tens but this fit seemed a little smaller, and the heel didn't quite grab right. My biggest gripe is with both pairs I had the rubber peeling away from the synthetic shoe body within the first fifteen minutes of wearing them. I like to give good reviews, but this shoe just seemed to miss the mark a bit.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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