Quandary Peak (14,265 ft) Feb '09

Quandary Peak (14,265 ft) Feb '09

Mountain Hardwear Dragon Softshell Jacket - Men's

June 15, 2009

Here I am at the summit of Quandary Peak in feb, 2009. We had sustained 35mph winds with 60mph gusts. This was my shell for the entire ski trip and it performed perfectly. I was warm and dry the whole time. Unfortunately I didn't bring a face mask for the trip, but the hood definitely helped cut the wind.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Ice Lead in Vail, CO

Ice Lead in Vail, CO

Mountain Hardwear Dragon Softshell Jacket - Men's

June 15, 2009

I'm on lead wearing the Dragon Jacket in Vail, Colorado.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Playing with Cyborgs.

Playing with Cyborgs.

Black Diamond Cyborg Crampons

December 11, 2008

Pegasus, Mt. Washington, New Hampshire. Feb 2008.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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I might have the screaming barfies, but at least my feet are warm.

I might have the screaming barfies, but at least my feet are warm.

La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's

December 11, 2008

Pegasus, Mt. Washington, New Hampshire. Feb 2008.

Nailed It? 2 Yes

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This thing works everywhere!

Marmot CWM MemBrain Sleeping Bag: -40 Degree Down

Rating for this product: 5 May 12, 2010

This is the perfect cold weather bag. When paired with the Exped downmat 9 you are ready to take on the coldest weather on earth.

Pros:
1. Super warm
2. im 6'1 and there is enough room for me to dry damp clothes at the bottom of the bag (i got the long)
3. foot box is comfortable and warm
4. WATERPROOF shell is amazing. I don't have to be constantly concerned about keeping the down dry - i know it's safe. Condensation inside the tent while in the north east is no longer an issue. I get all the comfort and warmth and weight savings of down with out the risks.
5. windproof shell is really nice on mt. washington, NH and in rocky mountain bivy nights
6. hood is comfortable and warm
7. fabric is pretty downproof

Cons:
1. draw cord system for the draft collar is a pain to use
2. its expensive, but from backcountry and marmot it is a once in a lifetime investment (i bought mine with a 20% sale/coupon)

Misc notes:
1. the bag dries out quickly
2. in really cold weather I like to pre warm the bag with hot water bottles (nalgenes)
3. zipper is pretty standard - snags a bit, but no more than most

I've used this bag in New Hampshire's White Mountains for week long trips on Mt. Washington and throughout the winters in Colorado's high country.

Nailed It? 10 Yes

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Marmot CWM MemBrain Sleeping Bag: -40 Degree Down

May 12, 2010

A note of clarification:

1. 800 fill down is warmer than 600 fill down, so a lighter weight of 800 fill will be warmer than a slightly heavier weight of 600 fill.

2. having extra space in the sleeping bag means there is more volume for you to heat. Heating dead space in the bag wastes precious body heat. Avoiding convective heat loss is one of the primary reasons people use liner bags.

Nailed It? 3 Yes

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Great idea, poor execution.

Black Diamond Ice Clipper

Black Diamond Ice Clipper

Rating for this product: 2 May 6, 2010

The BD ice clipper is a good idea, but there are so many design flaws that I can't recommend it to anyone. Especially not when Petzl makes the caritool which performs much better.

Pros:
1. Racks 4 - 6 screws or your tools
2. keeps things organized and in place

Cons:
1. They spin around through the sleeves on your harness (I've experienced this with the BD Blizzard and arc'teryx x350a) whenever you put some weight on them
2. the spike at the top is not big enough to securely hold screws while you're trying to access the third screw on your clipper
3. it should be deeper so that you can get more screws/tools on each clipper

I do not recommend this product to my friends. Instead I recommend the Petzl Caritool which does the same job much better.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Solid Screw

Petzl Laser Sonic Ice Screw

Petzl Laser Sonic Ice Screw

Rating for this product: 4 May 6, 2010

Pros:
1. Stephen Koch uses them - probably the best endorsement a product can get.
2. place fast and easy thanks to the swivel head
3. stay sharp
4. they rack pretty well with the petzl caritool (not well with the BD ice clipper)
5. the second can clean them easily and knock out the ice on the spot
6. can get 2 biners through hanger if you use small biners *DMM phantoms are great for this

Cons:
1. the arm between the screw and the hanger gets in the way so you have to excavate lots of ice out of tight spaces
2. clipping the screw part way through the placement sounds like a great idea, but is pretty hard to do in practice. I find that it ends up taking more time and increasing the chance of falling on an incomplete placement. You have to make sure the screw is placed deep enough that when you clip the rope the weight of the rope doesn't change the angle or pull the screw. Then, when finishing the placement, you have to fight the weight of your rope for the upwards half of each rotation. If I really need an oh $#!+ piece I still find it faster to clip a sling to a well placed tool.

Nailed It? 2 Yes

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My favorite screws!

Grivel 360 Ice Screws

Grivel 360 Ice Screws

Rating for this product: 5 May 6, 2010

These are by far my favorite screws and they make up the bulk of my ice rack.
Pros:
1. rack easily using the petzl caritool, but not so well with the BD ice clipper. 2. tips come sharp and stay that way, i've never had an issue with dulling the screw.
3. Fast, efficient, effortless placements every time.
4. rotating, swivel handle lets you get the screw in tight spaces without having to excavate away all your ice.
5. easy for the second to clean

Grivel screws have cone shaped threads instead of triangular ones. The idea behind this is that each thread has more surface area in contact with the ice, thus creating a stronger placement.

I recommend these to all my ice climbing friends. The only other screw that I use is the petzl laser sonic

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Excellent day pack

Arc'teryx Silo 18 Backpack - 1098cu in

Arc'teryx Silo 18 Backpack - 1098cu in

Rating for this product: 4 May 5, 2010

This is my most frequently used backpack. I use it for
1. school: (fits lap top, books, notebooks, has a separate pouch for pens, wallet, keys, cell phone, yet another pocket that fits 2 apples, and yet a third on the front that fits small items too.
2. Day hikes: fits water, snacks, sunscreen, bug spray, extra layers, camera, etc. The straps on the outside make it easy to attach trekking poles. I take it on hikes of less than 6 hours and it is perfect. I typically attach my OR multimat so we can lounge around when we take breaks.
3. climbing gym pack: fits shoes, harness, chalk bag, snacks, water bottle, tape, grigri, and draws
4. cycling backpack - stays in place
5. resort skiing pack - hat, gloves, goggles, food, water, extra layer. I would not want to carry skis on it though.

I have not ever, and probably would not ever use this pack as a touring pack. It isn't big enough, and although the fabric of the pack is very durable, the hip belt is too flimsy to carry much weight. I would not want to carry skis on this pack. It would be very tight if you tried to cram spare winter layers, goggles, gloves, helmet, etc into this pack for skiing.

General comments:
1. 2 external pockets are easy to use and big enough to hold essential gear.
2. Internal pocket helps with organization.
3. pack fabric is very durable
4. back panel is heavy duty. this is not a fast and light pack, but it can carry high density loads rather well
5. mine was made in the phillipines and the zipper sometimes snags on stray edges of sloppy stitchwork. (I typically expect more out of a $100 day pack)

I love it, I use it almost daily and would recommend it to a friend. I would not recommend it for it's intended use as a ski touring pack though.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Go to sport climbing crag pack.

Mountain Hardwear Splitter Backpack - 2150-2350cu in

Mountain Hardwear Splitter Backpack - 2150-2350cu in

Rating for this product: 5 May 4, 2010

This pack fits everything I need for a long day of sport climbing, keeps it well organized, and carries it comfortably. It is a cragging pack, and should not be confused with an alpine climbing pack. It is not designed to haul gear for 8 hour approaches. The longest approach hike I've had with it was 30 - 45 minutes and it felt good.

Pros:
1. Big enough to fit everything (15 - 20 draws, 10 lockers, grigri, reverso, PAS, 2 pairs climbing shoes (size 43.5) harness (arc'teryx x350a), chalk bag, 70 meter 9.8mm rope, rope tarp, keys, wallet, cell phone, 2 nalgenes, snacks for the day, helmet, sun block, bug spray, first aid kit, and a lightweight compressible puffy.
2. Keeps things organized. 3 gear loops at the top of the pack keep your sport rack organized. Special pockets for 1 pr shoes and chalk bag keep them in place. Nylon divider keeps your rope & rack separate from your other gear. Internal pockets hold snacks, keys, wallet, cell phone.
3. Complete clam shell opening lets you get to your gear fast and easy.
4. front pocket is big enough to fit lots of snacks and clothing even when the rest of the pack is full.
5. included rope tarp is big enough to hold a 70m 9.8mm rope.
6. outer nalgene pockets are deep enough to securely hold a water bottle even when the rest of the pack is stuffed
7. burly zipper takes some serious abuse.
8. daisy chain on the outside of the pack lets you attach extra gear if you need the space
9. shoulder straps and hip belt are padded and comfortable.
10. It carries high density loads very comfortably

Cons:
1. the 'ice axe' attachment on the front of the pack is flimsy and silly - i can't think of a use for it.
2. when you have a full rack clipped to the gear loops, the weight tends to pull the top of the pack down, which wastes space and renders the load lifters useless. (this problem can be minimized but not eliminated by laying the pack on it's back to pack it)
3. I would like to see some sort of secure external helmet attachment

Nailed It? 2 Yes

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Great idea, very poor execution.

Black Diamond Spinner Leash

Black Diamond Spinner Leash

Rating for this product: 2 April 21, 2010

I bought this, tried it out and I don't use it. I would not recommend this product to anyone.

The clips to attach the leash to the tool are big and bulky. They only work with tools that have a spike on the shaft rather than in the handle. That is, they cannot work on the petzl nomics. (I extended mine with accessory chord so I could use the spinner with my mixed tools... wasn't worth the effort)

Pros:
won't drop a tool

Cons:
*the leash is way too short which means you can't reach high without having to pull up pretty hard. Think resistance training every time you want to reach up.
*when high stepping the leash hangs down low enough to get in the way of your feet.
* when seconding the leashes still get tangled around your top-rope.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Pretty good, I hope it's worth the cost.

Millet Silver Triaxiale Single Rope - 9.8mm

Rating for this product: 4 April 20, 2010

I've had this rope for about 9 months now and it gets used quite a lot. I manage a climbing gym and this has been my go to rope since I bought it.

Pros:
1. Excellent hand - easy to work with
2. works well with grigri and reverso
3. lots of stretch gives a soft catch and reduces strain on gear

Cons:
1. the sheath shows wear pretty quickly
2. after a couple of days on ice in NH it gets wet and icy

Overall a pretty good multipurpose rope. I bought this because I read reviews that said it was a workhorse that could take more abuse than any other rope... I'm not yet convinced that this is accurate - the sheath wear on mine is pretty ugly. So far the core still feels good, I'll update my review if anything changes. If you've got the money, go for it.

Nailed It? 2 Yes

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excellent all around glove

Outdoor Research Vert Glove

Outdoor Research Vert Glove

Rating for this product: 5 April 20, 2010

great for active people in cold weather. i use them for cross country skiing, ice climbing, and hiking in the winter. they dry really fast, offer excellent dexterity, great grip, they are comfortable, water resistant. I am a big fan and will have several sets of these for next winter.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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I absolutely love this thing.

Petzl Meteor III Climbing Helmet

Petzl Meteor III Climbing Helmet

Rating for this product: 5 April 20, 2010

I hate helmets because they are uncomfortable, bulky, clunky, inconvenient to carry, and generally get in the way. But if you're going to play outside, they're really non negotiable. This helmet gives more coverage than most rock specific helmets which makes it safer for a wider range of potential impacts. It is so lightweight and comfortable that I've forgotten to take it off until I bang it against the car when getting in to go home. I use it year round for rock and ice climbing. It fits well under a hood and/or over a hat (in winter I use a windstopper hat because of all the vents in the helmet). This is the only chin strap that doesn't annoy the *$%& out of me. Unlike my shell helmet (Grivel Salamander) this helmet does not get ice crystals inside it. Wish it came in a matte color though.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Great Jacket, big $$$.

Arc'teryx Alpha SL Jacket  - Men's

Arc'teryx Alpha SL Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 April 20, 2010

I love Arc'teryx gear and this is no exception. It does all the things it's supposed to do and it does them well.

Pros:
1. SUPER adjustable hood. I can use this over a helmet or just over my hair without restricting range of motion or view in either case. You can cinch it down close to your face and the brim will minimize water dripping down your face. This is one of the best designed hoods I've ever seen.
2. packs down small
3. pockets work well with pack & harness.

Cons:
1. the cuffs seem to wick moisture up inside the sleeves
2. if you're just wearing a t-shirt under it your arms will feel wet and cold (they won't be wet, but they will feel wet). Mountain hardwear has developed a ceramic coating for the inside of their lightweight rain shells to combat this problem.
3. Even after proper DWR restoring treatments this jacket never seemed to bead water as well as my theta AR or alpha sv.

Beware: with the new paclite your jacket will look wet on the inside. It isn't. What you're actually seeing is the fabric breathing. I saw this and was initially very concerned, but when I used a piece of TP to soak up what I thought was water the paper was bone dry.

Pretty good jacket, I'm a loyal arc'teryx customer and am pretty content.

Nailed It? 2 Yes

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Arc'teryx Alpha SL Jacket - Men's

April 20, 2010

This jacket will fit much tighter than the stingray. I am 6'1 200 pounds and have a 35 inch waist. I have the SL in large and there is enough room for the atom lt or the montbell down inner parka (L) underneath it. The large SL is not big enough to layer for winter weather.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Arc'teryx Alpha SL Jacket - Men's

April 20, 2010

I use this for summer mountaineering when I want to move fast. The jacket can handle any weather no problem (even in the middle of winter). It's a great backpacking shell too. If you're going to be doing a lot of technical climbing I'd go with something a little more burly. The Alpha LT offers pro shell protection at a very light weight.

The SL is thin - it will handle some abuse, but I wouldn't buy it if the plan is to be scraping against rock and using crampons and mixed tools. I've used it to hike 7-8 14,000ft peaks (non technical) as well as some week long summer backpacking trips.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Outdoor Research NightHaven Footprint

April 19, 2010

there are clips on the floor to secure it to the tent. the attachment points are part way up the tent side wall (but still below the vents) which creates an overlap so you get a bathtub floor. there are two grommets for the tips of the trekking poles to go through. there are enough connection points to the tent to prevent the floor from sliding around.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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must have

Outdoor Research NightHaven Footprint

Outdoor Research NightHaven Footprint

Rating for this product: 5 April 19, 2010

this is a must have if you have the nighthaven

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Love it!

Outdoor Research NightHaven Light Shelter 2-Person

Outdoor Research NightHaven Light Shelter 2-Person

Rating for this product: 5 April 19, 2010

I used this (with footprint) for a week long trip in Rocky Mountain NP in August. We had hot nights and hail/snow storms (check the video). It was great, no condensation, waterproof, sheds wind, I'm taking it for a 180km trek through the Alps this summer.

Pros:
* lightweight, packable
* TONS of room for 2 people, lots of gear, and a dog.
* you can customize the tent shape for the conditions. If you want more headroom, you can extend the trekking poles more to get a higher, narrower tent. If you want more floor space, leave the poles low and stake it out wider (this also helps shed wind).
* most ventilation (read least condensation) from a single wall that I've ever seen
* easy to set up (stake it out first, extend the poles, make micro adjustments)
* obviously it's lightweight
* has loops so you can hang the tent instead of using trekking poles.
* in winter you can dig out bunk beds, steps, shelves, or kitchen underneath the shelter (you have to hang it and there needs to be a lot of snow)
* with the floor it is completely waterproof (check my video)
* mesh door is a nice touch
* floor is easy to clip in

Cons:
* I wouldn't trust it in new england's mosquito or black-fly season.
* might not want it somewhere with lots of dangerous snakes because the floor doesn't seal
* not many places to connect guy lines

Nailed It? 3 Yes

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I never needed a hiking boot until I got these.

La Sportiva Onix GTX-XCR Hiking Boot - Men's

La Sportiva Onix GTX-XCR Hiking Boot - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 April 19, 2010

I had backpacked across the Adirondacks, Great Smoky Mountain National Park, White Mountains, and climbed 5 of Colorado's 14ers in hiking shoes, never feeling the need for a hiking boot. After having great success with 2 other Sportiva products I decided to see what hiking boots were all about.

Pros:
*La Sportiva uses Vibram's impact break system which is now a requirement for every outdoor shoe/boot I buy. I'm 210lbs - coming down scree & talus with a pack used to put massive strain on my knees. These boots have unevenly angled treads so that there is always contact with the ground and IBS means the shoe does the work.
*Super light - lighter than some hiking shoes.
*Not too hot - took these for a week of off trail backpacking through RMNP in August and didn't sweat through a single pair of socks.
*Break in fast - Wore them all day the day I bought them - summitted 2 14,000+ft mountains in them the next day. My feet were comfy all day.
* completely waterproof.
* laces give a custom fit every time.
* very well priced.

Cons:
honestly cannot think of one.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Comfortable, high performance, looks good.

Arc'teryx Gamma MX Hooded Softshell Jacket - Men's

Arc'teryx Gamma MX Hooded Softshell Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 April 19, 2010

extremely comfortable light jacket that looks great and performs well. This is ideal for highly aerobic activities in cold weather. This is a highly specific jacket. It is not insulated and offers no wind resistance so you have to be pumping out some heat or use it as a layering piece. It is cut very nicely so you can easily layer over it. It can handle light snow, but will not keep you dry in a light rain. great for around town too.
I have the gamma mx hoody, atom lt hoody, sigma sv, alpha sv, alpha sl, and theta ar - the gamma mx is the least versatile and so it gets used the least.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Solid, smart multitasker for serious users.

Black Diamond Predator 50 Backpack - 2929-3052cu in

Black Diamond Predator 50 Backpack - 2929-3052cu in

Rating for this product: 5 April 19, 2010

This is my go to pack for ice climbing, alpine climbing, summer mountaineering, and backpacking trips of up to 3 nights.

Climbing features:
1. ingenious helmet carry ON TOP of the pack keeps the helmet secure and out of the way - avoids wasting space inside the pack and eliminates the clunky swing you get from clipping your helmet to the back of your other packs.
2. lid is removable to strip down for a summit push
3. smartest rope carry system i've ever seen. Rope is independently secured between the main storage compartment and the lid, but you have complete top side access to the main compartment without having to unclip & remove your rope.
4. Front and rear haul straps let you bring the pack up vertically, which reduces snags.
5. bomber crampon pocket lets snow/ice/water drain through the bottom, completely contains crampons adjusted to fit my size 47 boots, folds down and velcros flat against the pack when not in use (so it doesn't snag when you're in tight chimneys).
6. ice axe holders work equally well with my black diamond cobras and my petzl nomics (mixed tools with no adze/hammer). Sleeve keeps pick tips safe and out of the way.
7. padded hip belt is comfortable and has 2 sleeves for ice clippers.
8. padded hip belt can be replaced by an included lightweight hip strap (for summit days)
9. pack has a narrow profile to accommodate mid climb acrobatics & keeps the weight where you want it.
10. Sturdy frame lets the pack handle high density loads (ice climbing rack) with ease.

Backpacking Features:
1. due to an efficient use of space, this 55L pack holds more than most 70L packs.
2. Lid has 3 pockets (2 on the top/outside, 1 on the bottom/inside) - the small one (outside) is perfect for headlamp, cellphone/wallet, knife. The main lid pocket (outside) easily holds maps, guide book, camera, the day's trail snacks, bug spray, & sunblock. The inside/bottom pocket holds small first aid kit & TP.
3. Cavernous main compartment swallows everything you need for up to 3 summer nights.
4. Side access zip lets you get to key items.
5. crampon pouch is big enough to hold rain gear (jacket & pants - men's large)
6. side compression straps let you securely carry wands or tent poles on the outside.

Overall features:
1. Very durable outer fabric has taken lots of abuse scraping against rock and ice
2. I routinely fill this to 50 pounds with no problem. (I don't know of another pack that comfortably carries 1lb/liter.
3. remarkably inexpensive.
4. hydration compatible.
5. ski carry.

Cons:
1. the grommet from the lower of the two draw chord cinches on the top of the main compartment ripped out after about 8 months.
2. it does take a while to dry (though not longer than any other pack)

Nailed It? 8 Yes

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Well designed glove

Outdoor Research StormTracker Glove - Men's

Outdoor Research StormTracker Glove - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 February 3, 2010

these are comfortable, completely windproof, exceptionally water resistant, quick drying, and offer excellent dexterity. I use them for hiking, ice climbing, and around town. They are great for climbing ice because they offer such great water resistance and dry in your pockets on belay. the dexterity they allow is key. the gauntlet is nice and completely seals out harsh winds. the only problem is that the palm is a really soft leather, so i'm not sure how long they will last given lots of rope travel. I always use the shell from my belay gloves (black diamond prodigy glove) over top of these to belay/handle ropes.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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This is a work horse.

Arc'teryx Theta AR Jacket - Men's

Arc'teryx Theta AR Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 February 3, 2010

This jacket will do it all. The third pocket takes a bit of getting used to, but it helps keep things organized. I love the pockets on my Alpha SV, but things get lost in them because they're so big. The cut allows plenty of room for layering, allows you to move in every direction, and works with a harness. I am 6'1, 200 lbs, and have a 35 inch waist. The large leaves tons of room for layering in the winter and is baggy in the summer. The drop back really gives you full seat coverage. There are two cinch chords, one at the hem, and one at the bottom of the rib cage. The hood is fully adjustable, but not stowable.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Dream Jacket.

MontBell Ultralight Down Inner Parka - Men's

MontBell Ultralight Down Inner Parka - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 February 3, 2010

weighs nothing, the ballistic nylon is damn near windproof and feels great against the skin (which means it works over a t-shirt around town too), packs small, and the cut is perfect for active wearers. It's reasonably down proof, though it is a delicate piece. I'm 6'1 205 pounds and the large is perfect.

For comparison,
It is every bit as warm as my mountain hardwear compressor, but much lighter
It is slightly warmer than my Arc'teryx Atom LT hoody, though not as durable
The Patagonia down sweater is more durable, but I chose this piece over the patagonia because it is lighter, more comfortable, and it layers way more comfortably (ie has a more athletic cut to fit under shells).

Nailed It? 9 Yes

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Super Short Sleeves

MontBell Ultralight Tec Down Jacket - Men's

MontBell Ultralight Tec Down Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 2 February 3, 2010

Montbell sizes are horribly inconsistent. I'm 6'1 200 pounds and the large in this jacket fit perfectly in the body and torso, but the sleeves were just barely past my elbow. The UL Down Inner Parka by montbell, which weighs 4.7oz fits me perfectly in large.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Mountain Hardwear Lamina -30 Sleeping Bag: -30 Degree Thermic CF

January 30, 2010

ice climbing and mountaineering trips on the cheap leave you sleeping in the car A LOT. my advice, for an in car sleeping bag, is to go with a synthetic, not a down. It's cheaper, better when wet, and you're not concerned with weight or bulk. Unlike tents, cars don't breathe. In cold weather you'll wake up with a layer of frost over everything in the car which will get things wet when you turn the heat on. This happens even in dry climates because of exhaled moisture. As long as it's not dumping snow, you can leave the windows open (1 person in the car = 4 windows each 1/4 down; 2 people in the car = 4 windows 1/2 down) and you should be good.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Mountain Hardwear Lamina -30 Sleeping Bag: -30 Degree Thermic CF

January 30, 2010

Synthetics for damp conditions, down for dry conditions. High altitude and cold climates are typically drier, so down is preferable. Down bags also last longer because synthetic fills (like thermic micro) degrade faster.

As far as staying warm while sleeping in the Rockies: the sleeping bag is only one part of your sleep system. Your sleeping pad is every bit as important as the bag you're in. Closed cell foam pads are cheap, lightweight, waterproof, versatile (can be used as splints, seats, emergency sleds, etc.) warm, and indestructible but they are bulky and not very well padded (check out a ridgerest). Insulated air mattresses are more comforatble, more expensive, pack down smaller, can leak/rip which makes them useless, are typically heavier, and require more care (I use the downmat 9).

Clothing is equally important. Companies rate their bags based on different assumptions about what the sleeper is wearing.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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For simple meals, this is perfect.

GSI Outdoors Pinnacle Dualist Cookset

Rating for this product: 4 July 25, 2009

I love this thing. When I bought it, it didn't come with the sporks in the picture above.

Pros: Lightweight, compact, nests well, insulated bowls/mugs with lids save fuel, does not add that metallic taste to water/snow melt/food, can grab handle and lid at any time because they never get too hot, handle folds over the top of the lid for storage which keeps things from moving around, there is enough room for a pocket rocket stove inside if you arrange the bowls properly (but not the whisperlite internationale), tall & narrow means that it melts snow pretty efficiently because the rising heat stays in the pot, strainer lid could be useful (though I've never used it)

Cons: narrow pot makes it hard to mix foods if you're making a complex meal, clear lid is nice, but because the pot is so tall and dark, and because you're cooking with water that condenses on the lid, you still can't really see your food (that will be the same with every backcountry pot though), because it is tall the stove can become top heavy and off balance (this is something to be aware of with every stove though), not as non-stick as the teflon coated pots and pans

I like it and I use it when gourmet meals are not part of the plan.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Good idea, poor execution - check out the NYTimes article.

Bear Vault BV500 Bear Resistant Food Canister

Rating for this product: 2 July 25, 2009

Adirondak Park requires that backpackers use bear canisters because the smarter than average bears have figured out that when they see a bag in the air there will be a rope nearby that they can bite through. There are two main manufacturers of bear canisters, Bear Vault and 'Backpacker Food Cache'. They weigh the same. They cost the same. Buy the Backpacker Food Cache. Backcountry doesn't sell it yet, but they should. I've used the food cache for years in Adirondak black bear territory and never had a problem. They make great seats too. Make sure you leave the canister 150 feet from campsites. Bears will find it, it's kind of funny to hear them whomp on it for a while. Don't leave it next to a stream (if the bear knocks it in, you'd be screwed). Don't leave it next to a cliff... They are not waterproof, so package your food properly (this will also reduce odors and decrease the chances of bears visiting). Even the NYTimes is cashing in on this story.

My pic is from the Marcy Dam shelters.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/25/nyregion/25bear.html?em

Nailed It? 4 Yes

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Awesome all around shell

Mountain Hardwear Dragon Softshell Jacket - Men's

Mountain Hardwear Dragon Softshell Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 June 15, 2009

I use this thing for ice climbing, backcountry skiing, resort skiing, i've even bouldered in it mid feb. in vail. This thing is technically not considered waterproof by W.L. Gore, but with all the ice i've done in mine I've never gotten wet. W.L. Gore will not allow us to call windstopper garments 'waterproof' because they do not require manufacturers to tape the seams. The windstopper laminate itself is waterproof and breathable, but moisture can seep in at the seams. Mountain Hardwear has welded the seams on this piece so no moisture can seep through anywhere. Arc'teryx has done essentially the same thing with the Venta (they taped the seams on a windstopper garment) but it's way heavier than the Dragon. The Dragon has a nice cut and it moves with me as I climb. Check out my pic on this page. I'm 6 foot and 215 pounds.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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I almost forgot,

Arc'teryx Alpha SV Jacket - Men's

Arc'teryx Alpha SV Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 June 15, 2009

this is just an addition to the review i posted below - the pockets on this thing are PERFECT. they are huge, knife, camera, lighter, snacks, glove liners, sun screen all fit perfectly well. they are super easy to get into even with a pack. i've never used pockets as much as i do with this shell.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Pretty good.

Arc'teryx Alpha SL Pullover - Men's

Arc'teryx Alpha SL Pullover - Men's

Rating for this product: 3 June 15, 2009

This was a pretty good piece, but I'm not convinced that it's worth the money. Yes it's totally waterproof, and it's lightweight, but I would much prefer the jacket to fold tightly into it's own pocket, which this cannot do. You can stuff it into the kangaroo pouch, but that doesn't compress it all the way, it's still double the size it needs to be, and the zipper is only a single sided zip. The full length elbow to hem side zip is a nice idea, but they only put that on one side of the jacket. I think they should have put the full length zip all the way down to the hem on both sides of the jacket.

I ended up giving this one to my dad to wear around town. I've just ordered the alpha sl jacket instead.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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This thing can handle it.

Arc'teryx Alpha SV Jacket - Men's

Arc'teryx Alpha SV Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 June 15, 2009

Unless you're being deployed to Afghanistan, this jacket is all the bomb proof you'll ever need. By far the burliest shell I have ever seen. Excellent breathability (and by mountaineer's standards I'm a fatty who sweats way too much). It's cut pretty big so you can definitely layer underneath it. I'm 6 foot, 215 pounds and wear the XL comfortably over all my layers.

The hood is excellent with a helmet, but a little awkward without one... the reality is that if you need this jacket, you generally need your brain bucket too, so it's not a big deal.

It would be nice if it packed down a little smaller, but it's not like it's overly bulky.

This thing has been to the top of a few 14ers in Colorado with me and it held up it's end of the bargain. An awesome feature for climbing is the foam in the hem to stop it from riding up under your harness.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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This is the one SHE wants.

Mountain Hardwear Sub Zero SL Hooded Down Jacket - Women's

Mountain Hardwear Sub Zero SL Hooded Down Jacket - Women's

Rating for this product: 5 December 12, 2008

Attention all men: This is the one that'll keep her warm enough to kick your butt on your yearly xmas trip to the backcountry.

She says: great fit, not too bulky, the hood actually keeps her ears nice and warm, her starbursts don't freeze in her pockets. It's windproof (haven't tested the waterproof yet, but will update when we get back from RMNP in Jan) packs small and she even wears it to work.

This is the one she wants for xmas.

Nailed It? 2 Yes

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Didn't think it was possible.

Black Diamond Cyborg Crampons

Black Diamond Cyborg Crampons

Rating for this product: 5 December 12, 2008

I've always believed that there were walking crampons and climbing crampons, but that combining the two would always compromise performance. BD did it, and they're amazing. I wear these with my La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX slippers and have incredible toe placements. These crampons will make you climb harder if you let them. Worked great from the trailhead to the summit every time. Kicking steps, mono pointing for some tricky mixed, and walking around high camp, these things are ready to go.

As always, you have to keep them sharp and you have to make sure they fit your boots properly. A friend of mine cut the straps short on his to save weight and to avoid having to tuck the loose ends under his gaiters, but then the strap wasn't long enough to get around his double boots. Don't do that. Also, if you're new to crampons, try putting them on at home in the dark with gloves on before you hit the mountains. I can get mine on and snugly adjusted in under a min with gloves, but it took practice.

Nailed It? 4 Yes

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Don't Wash It.

Mountain Hardwear Monkey Man Fleece Jacket - Men's

Mountain Hardwear Monkey Man Fleece Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 December 12, 2008

Pros: Super light, incredible warmth to weight ratio, warm when wet, dries reasonably quickly, packs down to nothing in a compression sack.

Cons: Washing it totally messed with the high pile fleece - it lost a lot of loft (warmth). Just don't wash it (you're gonna smell on the mountain anyway). If you're a serious clean-o, handwash with a very mild soap.

Nailed It? 5 Yes

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Awesome Layering.

Patagonia R1 Hooded Fleece Pullover - Men's

Patagonia R1 Hooded Fleece Pullover - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 December 12, 2008

This thing is designed for the top - so don't slow it down. Lightweight, moves freely, hood fits nicely UNDER the helmet, thumb loops keep your sleeves where you want them. A really cool feature is the thinner material around the waist - it means you can layer without compromising the fit of your harness. This is an all year all mountain layering piece that eliminates cumbersome bulk. Washes easily. Pair it up with the patagonia houdini shell for a super light all weather system. Either they fit a bit slim or I'm getting fat.

Nailed It? 3 Yes

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Outdoor Research Alpine Bivy

December 11, 2008

I've used it in the snow and it works just fine. Still warm and dry inside (as long as you leave the zipper open at least 6 inches. As for snow piling up on top of you, yea, that sucks, but if you just shake around every so often you'll be fine.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Outdoor Research Alpine Bivy

December 11, 2008

There's a velcro tab on the end of the pole sleeve, pull that open, slide the pole in, and then close it up!Hope this helpsmatt

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Mountain Hardwear Monkey Man Fleece Jacket - Men's

December 11, 2008

I order mine as Loose fitting. I like a size larger so I can wear a sweatshirt underneath. I live near Lake Michigan, and it gets damp & cold here. I am usually very warm and unless its windy or below 20. I seldom wear a shell over the top. Combined with a thin soft shell, the combo keeps you very warm. If your stomach is larger than your chest, order a size larger or it may be too tight in the waist. -------------------Fitted or loose depends on what size you buy. I got mine a little small for me because I hate bulk when I'm climbing. There's enough room for a base layer or a really thin mid layer underneath mine, but that's how I like it. The piece stretches and moves with me as I'm placing ice tools.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Mountain Hardwear Monkey Man Fleece Jacket - Men's

December 11, 2008

In all honesty I'd give it a 6.5. It's not as durable as regular fleece but very plush & more compressible. For what it's worth, I'd give it a 10 on the plushness scale!Chiming in, it really depends on your scale. 10 being "will last longer than the pyramids" or 10 being "will last me out the season" are two entirely different things. That said, Jeff's right. The outer fabric is not as long-lasting as a standard fleece.---------------I beat the hell outta my gear. Mine lasted a full season of hard climbing & mountaineering without issue. The only problem is that it was never the same after I washed it.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Black Diamond Cyborg Crampons

December 11, 2008

Backcountry doesn't but you can probably find them on BD's website.--------------------------http://www.bdel.com/gear/spare_parts_rock.phpReplacement frontpoints are $9.95, Bolt Kit $1.50, and spacer kit is $4.95. The other piece you might end up replacing is the toe bail with the toe strap which is $12.60 a piece.~ Matt

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Mountain Hardwear Sub Zero SL Hooded Down Jacket - Women's

December 11, 2008

This jacket definitely does not have this problem. And the hood's not removable, so that question is moot.-----------------------------Sorry Angus... the hood IS removable on this jacket. And it does not look like the normal Sub Zero because the normal Sub Zero is color blocked on the shell and the Sub Zero SL Hooded Jacket is completely one color.The SL Sub Zero I bought has a zip off hoodThe SL Sub Zero definitely has a zip off removable hood.

Nailed It? 2 Yes

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Mountain Hardwear Sub Zero SL Hooded Down Jacket - Women's

December 11, 2008

the hood zips off. I just bought this jacket. It's great.It is definitely detachable (zipper) below the collar line. There is a flap between the collar and the hood zipper to prevent drafts coming through the zipper and under the hood up to your head.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Mountain Hardwear Sub Zero SL Hooded Down Jacket - Women's

December 11, 2008

The other one says it's water resistant, but really the Conduit SL on this jacket is a fair bit more so. This one will be a bit warmer too, less casual.The Conduit SL is waterproof and windproof, the regular is only water/wind resistant. SL has reinforced shoulders, elbows, and sleeves that resist abrasion from ropes, ice, trees/branches. This is a highly technical jacket for mountaineering, the regular is a top of the line around towner.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Snug, Very Snug.

Mountain Hardwear Ghost SL Sleeping Bag: -40 Degree Down

Mountain Hardwear Ghost SL Sleeping Bag: -40 Degree Down

Rating for this product: 3 December 11, 2008

Bag is lightweight, the shell is bombproof. I'm a mountaineer and when I'm outside, I beat the hell outta my gear. This bag loves that, as long as you treat it nice when you get home.

I'm 5'11 and got the regular size bag. I just barely fit in, which is not good enough. When you're mountain climbing, the only way to dry your stuff is inside your sleeping bag at night. there was not enough room in this bag for my shell and boots to dry while i sleep. I also like to throw some hot water bottles in the bag with me - pre warms the bag and means I have nice warm water to drink in the AM.

Great bag, well made - the only construction problem is that the zipper snags like crazy. Will do the job, just make sure you order big.

Nailed It? 3 Yes

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I like these boots as much as I like my toes!

La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's

La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 December 11, 2008

Pros: fit right out of the box (literally did not need to break them in), Soft leather is extremely comfortable, the extra inserts help with warmth and custom fit (and you can take them out at night and throw them in your bag to dry fast, hold my BD Cyborg crampons very well (approach hiking & technical ice climbing), stable footing with great tread when not using crampons, lacing all the way down to the toe is great for a custom fit that lasts all day, the lace locking mechanism is really nice when trying to lace up with cold hands. I put these boots on and immediately forget about my feet so I can focus on the summit. Super Warm, took them out for a presidential traverse in February 2008 in NH. Mt Washington never got above -30F and I was toasty warm the whole time. Can't wait to take them out to Vail Colorado with me for the ski season!

Cons: lace locking system took a bit of practice before it became second nature.

Nailed It? 7 Yes

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I expected a bit more.

Sea To Summit Reactor Thermolite Sleeping Bag Liner

Sea To Summit Reactor Thermolite Sleeping Bag Liner

Rating for this product: 3 November 28, 2008

I don't see how this really adds 15 degrees of warmth, though I still use it as part of my down system. Like any other liner, it helps keep the sleeping bag clean, packs small, and weighs little. Soft material feels great. It is honestly so thin that you can see through it, though I took it to the smokey's in TN this summer and used it alone as my sleeping bag.

Nailed It? 2 Yes

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As good as bivying gets.

Outdoor Research Alpine Bivy

Outdoor Research Alpine Bivy

Rating for this product: 5 November 28, 2008

Pros: Really light, completely water proof, packs small, bug screen is a nice touch.

Cons: Pole does not stay up so the bivy collapses on your face, stake loops are too small (fine for low altitude & soft ground, but not great for alpine bivys or deadmanning), not breathable at low altitude & when it's warm outside.

I took this for some extended trips through the Adirondacks and it was great. The pole does nothing to keep it open though, so you don't really get the stargazing experience one would expect with the bug screen. I've spent some storms in it and was as comfortable as one can be in a bivy, but the goretex doesn't really breath when it's warm so you get some serious condensation buildup.

All in all a great light weight solution for soloing in the mountains - I'm taking it out for a season on colorado's 14ers.

Nailed It? 3 Yes

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Awesome Bag!

The North Face Pyxis Sleeping Bag: 0 Degree Climashield Neo

The North Face Pyxis Sleeping Bag: 0 Degree Climashield Neo

Rating for this product: 5 November 17, 2008

Super light weight - lighter than most of the -19C/0F down bags I was looking at. It lofts up instantly when you take it outta the stuff sack after a long day in the mountains. This is the first bag I've ever owned that didn't get zipper snags - honestly, not one! Perfect fall bag for the ADKs.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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Bulky & Comfortable

Therm-a-Rest Ridge Rest Deluxe Sleeping Pad

Therm-a-Rest Ridge Rest Deluxe Sleeping Pad

Rating for this product: 3 October 31, 2008

I'm a mountaineer and I beat the hell out of my gear. this piece is no exception.

Pros: comfortable, warm, big enough that you don't have to worry about rolling off, lightweight, durable.

Cons: very bulky - has to be strapped to the outside of your pack - a friend of mine had his ripped off his pack by wind on an alpine ascent - he blamed the pad for being too big - I told him he should learn how to tie stuff to his pack.

I trimmed mine down so it fits inside my bivy and doesn't catch on rock and overhanging ice as im climbing.

It does the job it's designed to do - there's no excuse for being surprised at the size when it's listed under specs...

Nailed It? 3 Yes

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Exactly What I Was Looking For.

Sugoi FinoTech T-Shirt - Long-Sleeve - Men's

Sugoi FinoTech T-Shirt - Long-Sleeve - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 August 31, 2008

This is a great lightweight, packable, itch free shirt for mountaineering. Breathes well and dries fast.

The only thing that could improve this shirt is some sort of odor control - but even in that respect its better than most techwicks.

This is the one you want when you're looking for something on a cool summer morning, when the temps drop as you climb high, or as a no-nonsense piece for barely there layering.

Nailed It? 1 Yes

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No surprises

The North Face Veloci-Tee - Short-Sleeve - Men's

The North Face Veloci-Tee - Short-Sleeve - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 July 7, 2008

Lightweight. Comfortable. Dries very fast. Does not restrict movement at all... you put it on and it's like it's not even there. Comfortable with a pack on and great for summer mountain climbing. Layers well. Perfect shirt, price can't be beat.

Nailed It? 0 Yes

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Do what they're supposed to.

Sierra Designs Hurricane LT Pant - Men's

Sierra Designs Hurricane LT Pant - Men's

Rating for this product: 3 July 7, 2008

Pros: lightweight, pack small, cheap, waterproof.

Cons: no venting system, ankle openings make it tough to put them on over top of shoes. (To be fair, I have size 13 feet - might be easier in a size 9 shoe)

It'd be better if they packed into a pocket instead of the bag they come in. I've already lost the bag and wouldn't want to carry the extra weight anyway.

Nailed It? 4 Yes

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