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Sidi Rubber Heel Pads
August 30, 2011
mill 3 is notched out, mill 2 is not. You need mill 3.
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Shimano SH56 SPD Cleat Set
August 30, 2011
You need an SH-85 adapter plate. It goes from road (3-bolt/spd-sl) shoes to mountain (spd/spd-r) cleats (not from mountain shoes to road cleats). Basically you need road shoes to do it. If your Shimano shoes are road shoes you just need the SH-85 adapter plate and a set of spd cleats.
Nailed It? 0 Yes
Shimano Dura Ace CS-7900 Cassette
August 28, 2011
yes, you shouldn't have a problem with going up to 30 tooth in the rear cassette with a Dura-Ace RD. With a compact crank you will have to be heading up some serious slope to really need it, unless you ride with Contador-style cadence on the climbs.
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Castelli Podium Collection - Mortirolo Bib Short - Men's
August 25, 2011
Not in Europe, they're much less self-conscious over there . . . but here in the US be careful if you ride around any minors!
I'm not even sure where the "full zip" would go on a Free Bib-there is so little fabric in the front as it is.
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Capo Limited Edition Roubaix Bib Knicker - Men's
August 25, 2011
That's what the zipper is for if it has one-and prepare to test the limits of the stretch on that lycra.
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Reynolds RZR 46 Team Wheelset - Tubular
August 25, 2011
Lightweights are better, although that is opinion. I wouldn't jump on these wheels until they have more miles in use/longer track record, especially considering the Paul Lew connection. Lightweight, meanwhile, has a proven track record. Of course, I should add that I have never ridden a Reynolds wheelset and have two Lightweight wheelsets (Standard III and Ventoux with Tune hub-still not sure which is faster). I guess you can replace a spoke on the RZR . . . but if you never break a spoke on a Lightweight wheel, does that matter? (I believe the Standards have even been used for cross country races by professional riders in the past).
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Hutchinson Atom Tire - Tubeless
August 25, 2011
Not sure what you mean by "regular" rims but if you mean clinchers, then not unless they are tubeless wheels should you use tubeless tires on them. Tubeless wheels have slightly different rim edge shape to better intersect at the special bead shape of a tubeless tire that forms a (relatively) air-tight seal. You can probably make them work on clincher rims by using something like Stan's No Tubes to seal them but they are technically meant for "tubeless" wheels. If used on tubeless wheels there shouldn't be any mess, as you don't use glue for tubeless wheels (while you need to glue for tubular). If you use sealant, it cleans up pretty easily. Tubeless almost always has more air leakage, at least more than a tube leaks, without adding a sealant.
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Mavic R-Sys SL Clincher Wheelset
August 25, 2011
No, but it's hard to get an exact on weight limits anyway because the nature of the riding is usually a more important factor than only taking rider weight into account. Also, wheel companies want to do as little warranty replacement as possible so they don't want to replace a wheel when you jumped off a 12-foot cliff and cracked your rim in half just because you are under the "rider weight limit." Even the lightest weight limit wheels will hold up under just about all road cycling conditions for everyone except possibly professional riders and their higher wattage output during sprints. Yes there are static weight limits on wheels where the rim will break/buckle under a certain static load (i.e. no movement just added weight), but that's more like 1000lbs. because the jarring it will take when riding will mimic these kinds of forces on a 175 or 250 lb rider on certain impacts/bumps. If you are concerned about potentially catastrophic failure (i.e. break in the rim throws you over the handlebars or out into traffic), I would suggest always "breaking in" a new wheelset by riding it under the easiest conditions first, getting used to the feel, flex, and the creaks (if there are any) and then gradually go more all out from there. Heavier riders will get more flex out of wheels, but they won't actually break. All wheels, even full carbon/carbon spokes, will flex quite a bit before they will fail/break so you should be able to tell the limits if you ever actually approach them before you actually break anything.
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Shimano Dura-Ace WH-7900-C35 Carbon Tubular Wheelset
August 25, 2011
yes and yes. Shimano wheels are generally over-engineered from a durability standpoint.
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Shimano Dura Ace CN-7901 Chain
August 25, 2011
yes, it will work on all 10 speed drivetrains, just make sure you put in on the right way-it has asymmetric links so one specific side must face toward the frame.
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Shimano Ultegra FC-6700 Crankset - Triple
August 25, 2011
yes, especially if you have shimano on it right now it should work no problem (all of the newest components mount/install in pretty much the same way they have for years) although depending on if you plan on replacing the whole groupset at once or gradually upgrading, mixing with the older components may or may not work/work well depending on what you buy/keep.
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Shimano Ultegra RD-6700 Rear Derailleur
August 25, 2011
Moving up to Ultegra will make for smoother drivetrain/shifting but maintenance is the most important aspect of getting a smooth drivetrain-no matter how expensive the components are they must be properly (meaning regularly) cleaned/degreased and lubed. Installation/tweaking of the drivetrain is also a factor if you are installing yourself or having the LBS do it make sure you (or they) know what they are doing. A little patience in adjusting limit screws, etc. will be worthwhile in the long run.
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Shimano Ultegra CS-6700 Cassette
August 25, 2011
28 tooth should be fine-rated cog capacity is usually correlated to what size cassettes the manufacturer is offering at the time. Shimano's largest cassette cog offered was 27 tooth when the 6600 series came out. With the 6700 series they added the 28-tooth option. More info. here under capacity: http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ca-g.html.
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Reynolds Assault Wheelset - Clincher
August 25, 2011
It's hard to get an exact on weight limits because the nature of the riding is usually a more important factor than only taking rider weight into account. Also, wheel companies want to do as little warranty replacement as possible so they don't want to replace a wheel when you jumped off a 12-foot cliff and cracked your rims just because you are under the "rider weight limit." Even the lightest weight limit wheels will hold up under just about all road cycling conditions for everyone except possibly professional riders and their higher wattage output. Yes there are static weight limits on wheels where the rim will break/buckle under a certain static load (i.e. no movement just added weight), but that's more like 1000lbs. because the jarring it will take when riding will mimic these kinds of forces on a 175 or 250 lb rider on certain impacts/bumps. If you are concerned about potentially catastrophic failure (i.e. break in the rim throws you over the handlebars or out into traffic), I would suggest always "breaking in" a new wheelset by riding it under the easiest conditions first, getting used to the feel, flex, and the creaks (if there are any) and then gradually go more all out from there. Heavier riders will get more flex out of wheels, but they won't actually break. All wheels, even full carbon/carbon spokes, will flex quite a bit before they will fail/break so you should be able to tell the limits if you ever actually approach them before you actually break anything.
Nailed It? 0 Yes
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Campagnolo Sportswear Thermo TXN Waterproof Overshoe
August 25, 2011
Yes, they'll go over pretty much anything provided they fit-which may take a little figuring out size-wise as cycling shoes are usually a little more rigid & narrow than sneakers.
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SRAM PG-970 Cassette (9 Speed)
August 11, 2011
Why not go with a 10spd cassette as you are putting in 10 spd derailleurs? Unless you want to keep the shifters/chain 9spd. Either way, if you want faster you should go with a lower number of teeth in the rear such as 11-something (11 tooth is the smallest you can get). Remember lower teeth on the rear translate to faster wheel spin/faster speed. The top gear range will be best determined by what kind of terrain you are riding. If you ride on flat terrain, go with 11-23 because you don't need the high gears and you have more options in the lower/faster gears. If you have a lot of hills then go with 11-25 or 11-28 as the higher gears will help on the inclines. Your crankset (standard vs compact vs triple) will also help determine how fast you go at a certain cadence. A 53-tooth big front ring will go faster/at a lower cadence than a 50-tooth. Any higher number of rings than 28 is usually used for MTB bikes that go steep uphill on dirt. Then you should get MTB derailleurs/full drivetrain.
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Shimano Ultegra CS-6700 Cassette
August 11, 2011
Yes it will help if you find yourself on the small front ring and the largest rear ring and still not able to get the cadence you want, no you don't have to replace your chain. You should avoid riding on the 53 front ring and the 28 tooth rear anyway as it stresses your drivetrain too much to have it crossed liked that, and that is the only combo that might have an issue with chain length. Are you sure you have 53/34 up front? That doesn't sound right, as it is not a stock combo that Shimano makes. Usually you have 53/39 (130 BCD) or 50/34 (compact 110 BCD). A 53/34 is possible on a compact crankset but I've not seen it and you would likely have shifting issues anyway (i.e. dropped chains) with such as large difference. If you have 53/39 up front currently you could also switch to a compact crankset to help with the hills (50/34) although you would need to buy a whole new crankset (because the bolt circle diameter or BCD must be smaller to get less than a 39 tooth).
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Sidi SPD Adapter Plates
August 11, 2011
Replaces the existing pedal cleats on the outside of the shoes (the black part in the picture), yes it is compatible with Genius 5, no it is not really compatible with genius 5 with composite sole (Pro Carbon, only one vertical lane for bolts). If your exising plates (metal things inside the shoe) are only two hole then you should take them out of the inside of your shoes and put the plates that come with these in (although you don't have to they will be more secure this way with 4 bolts holding them as they are supposed to). You may or may not have fit issues as spd cleats don't have much lateral (side-to-side) adjustability. If you already have the four bolt metal plates, you just need to buy SPD cleats which should be available separately on their own.
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Feedback Sports RAKK Integrated Bicycle Display System
August 11, 2011
Yes, you just put it in backwards. I do it all the time as it's convenient to do when changing out wheels so the bike doesn't start dancing around on you when you change out the rear.
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Sidi Rubber Heel Pads
August 11, 2011
millenium 2 sole is for shoes with no rivet at the back of the sole, millenium 3 is for shoes with a rivet at the back of the sole (the millenium 3 is the one with the notch in the plastic where it has the logo-in the same place as the notch in the rubber-to avoid hitting the rivet, millenium 2 has no notch cut out). The plugs/nubs in the back are meant if you have plug holes in your soles, some have two, some have one, some don't have any. If you don't have plug holes you just clip off the plastic plug(s). Both come with the two plastic plugs/nubs. Basically you get the same ones you already have by comparing to the pictures.
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Ridley X-Bow
August 11, 2011
No pedals included because they are so variable on what someone likes and what your shoes are compatible with you buy them separately.
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Shimano Ultegra FC-6700 Crankset - Triple
August 11, 2011
I don't think Shimano specifically makes a higher chainring for the Ultegra triple but you can buy aftermarket upwards of 60 tooth+ still compatible with 130BCD. One company that makes them is TA (French company). Of course that won't blend in as nicely as the ultegra hollow big ring if you are concerned about aesthetics. But aftermarket rings may perform better than stock. Depending on how big you are talking, with the triple you may start to run into serious shifting issues (double shifts, skipping, etc.) getting chainring combinations that are too far apart, not to mention the rear derailleur may not support that much slack in the chain when on the small ring. Another option is to get an 11-tooth ring for your cassette if you don't already have one.
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Shimano Ultegra BB-6700 Bottom Bracket
July 17, 2011
Generally speaking, basically you need the size of the bb shell on the frame-68mm or 70mm. That will give you the thread size-68mm for english and 70mm italian. There are several ways to determine bb: 1)Remove the BB currently on the bike and it may have specs on it. 2)Measure the shell size (width) on your frame with a caliper (68 or 70mm). 3)99% of the time english bb are threaded opposite each other (one side-the non-drive side-tightens/loosens normally and the other side-drive side-tightens/loosens opposite) while italian bb are threaded normal (right-tight/left loose) on both sides. 4)Try a spare bb in english thread, if it works it's english, if the threads fall through, it's italian. 5)Italian is much rarer than english, but that is more nowadays. If going to external bb you may need a new crankset as well though-your old crank may not have a long enough spindle. Check here: http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bottom.
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Shimano Dura Ace FC-7900 Crankset DO NOT USE
July 17, 2011
Works for BB90. BB90 uses a different bottom bracket (slip-fit bearings in shell/frame) but the crankset is (basically) the same as traditional threaded/cartidge-style bb. Not every traditional crankset will be compatible (due to spindle length) but the 7900 is compatible with bb90. Depending on your current crankset you may need a different set of BB90 parts-bearings/seals/spacers/etc (i.e. Shimano won't work with existing SRAM/GXP). Check you madone owner's manual for more details.
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Shimano Ultegra CS-6700 Cassette
July 17, 2011
Yes, your "triple" front derailleur will most likely not work correctly with a "double" crankset right "out of the box." Your chainline will be messed up (check http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html for info. on chainline). Your left shifter will also likely give you trouble if you have 10 speed 105 (10 cogs in the rear cassette) as it has different model shifters for double and triple. 9 speed 105 shifters are compatible with both double and triple. It may be possible to get it to work consistently by adjusting your front derailleur limit screws, etc. (I'm not even sure how much you can adjust 105) so that it will shift from the small chainring next to large and then just not ever click shifter to the third level but it will take some tweaking/adjusting on your part. Check here: http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-444962.html
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Zipp Speed Weaponry VumaQuad Bottom Bracket
July 17, 2011
The spindle diameter is 30mm on these bb cups (and on the Vumaquad crankset). It might be made to fit another brand BB30 crankset but will not fit a Dura-Ace traditional crankset without some kind of shim/adapter (to get from 25mm dura-ace crankset spindle diameter to 30mm bearing opening) which I doubt exists.
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FSA MegaExo Ceramic Bottom Bracket
July 17, 2011
I'm not an expert on BB30, but short answer no. Long answer (I apologize in advance if you don't know some of the terminology): the megaexo is the same basic spindle (the "axle" of the crankset) size as traditional crankset/bb (25mm) it just is on the outside of the frame rather than inside the bb shell of the frame as in the older style to have a larger, and stiffer bearing. The "megaexo" part describes the overized bearing and that it is on the outside of the frame/bb shell, not a larger spindle diameter. So, the hole on the inside of the bearing for the crank spindle is the same 25mm diameter. Also, the Megaexo is a traditional bottom bracket in the sense that it consists of "cups" that contain the bearings that thread (screw) onto either side of the bb shell/frame. The BB30 uses a press-fit style (the bearings are actually pressed into the frame and held in by the crankset itself) rather than threads and uses a larger diameter crank spindle (30mm) so the megaexo bb cups would be too small to fit your bb30 crankset spindle, and would have nothing to screw into on your frame anyway. Basically, BB30 and traditional bb (including the megaexo style) are incompatible (As an aside, I think you can get BB30 bb adapter cups so that a traditional megaexo crankset will work in a BB30 frame, but you cannot go the other way-i.e. can't have a bb30 crankset work with a traditional bottom bracket in a bb30 frame or any other frame). What you want to get is a BB30 bearing kit to replace your existing BB30 bearings (FSA makes them although realcyclist may not have them, check the FSA website).
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Giordana FormaRed-Carbon Jacket - Men's
September 15, 2010
It's all synthetic. The interior lining is a kind of brushed micro-grid pattern but not a "fleece" in the traditional sense. It is a brushed lining but is not long at all-more like the interior of a Polartec Powershield softshell but even shorter than that. The overall jacket is basically a highly specialized softshell.
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Giordana FormaRed-Carbon Jacket - Men's
August 5, 2010
I wear a large in Giordana and I am 6'2", 180lbs, wear a 56euro/46US suit jacket. I have 4 Formas and 2 Formared jackets and they fit me very well. If you're torso is shorter, these jackets may actually work better than others because they are cut to be a really tight fit so they are shorter in the front (I did a quick measure and got 21.5" on the hanger) for when bent over the handlbars vs. other non-pro fit jackets. The back length un-stretched on the hanger is about 6-7" longer than the front-but this is done on purpose so that when bent over the bars it should be pretty much even. The sleeves on a large may be a bit long, I like the sleeve length on them and I wear a 35-36 dress shirt sleeve. You may want to even try a medium to see if the length is better. Brands like Giordana's Forma line, Castelli Rossa Corsa line, Assos and some others make their clothing sizes based more on height than girth because they kind of assume that anyone buying these top-line items is going to be a pretty in-shape cyclist, and the materials are also meant to stretch. Ex. I have 2 pairs of Mavic Infinity Bibs, 1 in large and 1 in medium and they both fit me fine although the medium is a bit shorter length in the thigh.
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Giordana FormaRed-Carbon Jacket - Men's
August 5, 2010
You can't really go wrong with either of these. I have the Castelli Quantum jacket-pretty similar to the Insolito with same fabric and removable radiation insert but no hood-and the Castelli is a bit looser fabric fit than the Giordana. The Castelli is also very warm if you use the radiation insert-it's really warm, enough for the coldest weather the way the thing traps the heat. The Formared jacket is also thinner and tighter fitting than the regular Forma, which itself is pretty tight. I just got the Formareds this summer so I can't attest to its warmth from use, but based on the thinner fabric and tighter fit I would confidently guess its not as warm as the Castelli. I have had 2 Formas for several years and can attest to their great performance and warmth just below the Castelli in warmth (one winter so far). I actually found myself taking the inner jacket out of the Castelli and wearing it alone because the Formas and Castelli with radiation insert were too hot a lot of the time depending on my layering. I currently have the one Castelli Quantum, 4 Formas, 2 Formareds (2 Formas and 2 Formareds purchased this summer so not used yet) so I will have a good rotation to wash after each use. The ones I have had for a while (Castelli and Formas) all have held up well to washing after every use (I recommend washing after each use otherwise you can get the synthetic fabric stink stuck in there). I wear a large in all of these jackets and I am 6'2", 180 lbs. with a 56euro/46US suit jacket.
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Race Face Next SL Road Bike Handlebar
March 24, 2010
No. End plugs come with the handlebar tape kits.
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Vittoria Corsa Evo CX Tire - Tubular
March 16, 2010
I use them every weekday about 20-25 miles on my Zipps.
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Spyder Chamonix Jacket - Men's
November 23, 2009
Their "legend" jackets are very nice and really do have features that put them on a high bar even compared to their other product lines. In my experience the great-feeling stretchable fabrics are the best feature of the higher-end jackets (I have experience with Kjus, Phenix, Spyder Legend personally). They help eliminate the "puff-ball" look on the slopes while still allowing you to hit it hard in blizzard conditions in the single digits without heading in to the chalet to warm up every half-hour. BTW-The new Chamonix is now called the SAAS FEE for 09-10 and the vest is on the inside of the jacket-but it does now come with a detachable hood. Unfortunately, it now goes for $1250 as well.
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POC Lobes Goggle
August 4, 2009
All the lenses are mirrored (names are blue/silver mirror, pink/silver mirror, champagne/silver mirror, etc.). The degree to which you can see inside usually depends on the amount of bright light present (more light=more reflective so harder to see inside, less light=less reflective so easier to see inside). Check out http://www.pocsports.com/products/lobes_ski.asp# for more info.
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Giordana Forma Red Carbon Summer Glove - Men's
July 30, 2009
Did you try throwing them in the washing machine (by themselves on gentle cycle in cold water w/ a small amount of detergent)? Usually that will help the dreaded color-bleed.
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Spyder Davos Pant - Men's
December 31, 2008
The raven is a different shade that isn't obvious based on these pictures. It's basically a lighter shade than black on the black-grey spectrum. You can zoom in on Spyder's website.
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Black Diamond Neve Pro Crampons
March 19, 2008
yes they are adjustable for all men's sizes as long as your boots are crampon compatible.
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