Evolv Demorto Climbing Shoe - 2008 BCS
The DeMorto Shoe provides experienced climbers with a high-performance, symmetrical toebox option. Formerly the hallmark of an entry-level climbing shoe, a symmetrical toe profile is a fact of life for many advanced climbers as well. Thankfully, Evolv had the courage to listen, and as a result created one of the only shoes to really fit rock nuts with longer second toes. The DeMorto’s varied-thickness TRAX XT-3 rubber outsole wraps upward in the arch for smearing and added durability, while a full-length midsole provides support for edging. Thick heel ridges give you a bit of cushion and some extra hooking power.
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February 11, 2011
I bought these after ordering my first pair of evolvs in the wrong size. These are my first pair of climbing shoes and I am happy with my purchase. My only gripe is that my big toe or pinky toe will sometimes be forced inward towards the other toes but it doesn't hurt and I got used to this quickly. The super stiff toes are worth it. These haven't brought me leaps and bounds past using gym shoes but these have helped me a lot with my smearing and with consistently nailing toeholds. They don't breath well since they are leather so be prepared to get a little stinky.
December 31, 2010
I have arthritis in my big toe, and these shoes are good at keeping motion in the joint to a minimum. The stiff toe box also keeps motion down when I step on my toe, and I barely notice the torsion. The symmetric toe box also takes pressure off my arthritic toe--probably by distributing the weight to my other toes.
I fit a size 8.5 men's shoe, and I bought a size 7 in these. The 7 fit well on the spot.
After about 1.5 hours of wearing these in the climbing gym, I really want to take them off.
My only qualm is that they crush and bruise my toe-nails, which may be a result of my non-symmetric foot in the symmetric shoe.
In all, great, attractive shoe. I would recommend.
I have just recently started climbing at a local rock gym and
I have just recently started climbing at a local rock gym and after one sniff of using the rental shoes I decided that I was buying my own pair to use. I bought a pair that seemed to be comfortable in the store, but upon using them for a half hour I find they are much too narrow for my wide feet. I wear a 10.5 4e street shoe and got 5.10 coyote lace ups in size 11. After a half hour or so of use, my two outside toes begin hurting due to being crushed inward because of the width of the shoe.
The symmetrical toe box on this shoe seems like it would help, but I was wondering if anyone knew specifically if it was good for people with wide feet?
Edit: I should add that I would like to go climbing outdoors with some people that I know who do multi-pitch trads, so a long wearing comfortable shoe is going to be necessary.
October 27, 2009
DKCwenge, thanks for the answer, do you have to buy wide sizes in sneakers too, or is the regular size ok? I haven't worn Nike in ages, I usually end up now with the wide version of an Adidas or New Balance sneaker. I tried to find these locally to try on, but nobody seems to have them (Campmor, EMS, REI). So far the best I have found is the Evolv Defy, but I'm still looking to try these and a pair of Acopas
November 4, 2009
i have wider feet.. but not super wide. as in, i prefer adidas over nike. but with that said, these shoes are fine. the great thing about lace-ups is that you can vary where the tension is up and down your foot.
October 29, 2009
If you can comfortably wear shoes for half an hour, you're fine. When I bought my first pair of shoes I could wear them for maybe 5 minutes at a time. Just suck it up, you'll be fine.
October 28, 2009
Praise Jesus and Evolv for the Demortos
November 18, 2010
These shoes are a gift from heaven to people with a long middle toe. I've gone through 2 pairs of these and decided it was time to try to find another shoe just to mix things up after two years with the Demortos. Knowing I'd have trouble finding a shoe that fit, I ordered a thousand dollars worth of symmetric high performance shoes in my street size and half a size down and all of them crushed my middle toe to the point where even walking was unbearable or there was just way too much room in the toe box for my other toes. I was surrounded by boxes, paper and shoes and then I tried on the Demortos and they fit perfectly. I owe Evolv an apology for ever thinking of straying. Thank you for making this shoe! My only complaint is that the design and color are ugly. I can deal though.
pretty decent shoe!
October 29, 2009
i've actively climbed in this shoe for 10 months (but owned for almost 2 years...). this shoe is pretty nice. but no matter what the manufacturer says, synthetic will still stretch a little. if you're ok with a little more room (or not), be prepared for it. my shoes now lace up to the minimum possible size, which is just right.one of the things i do not like about this shoe is that it's hard to get the smell out. i dont have particularly stinky feet at all. but it is pretty gross. ive washed it out a couple times and it's bad. baking soda works ok.the second thing i dont like is that the heel doesnt hug as well as i want. the scarpa techno's have a little tightening mechanism to allow a more snug heel. but those shoes cost a little more.the rubber, like the reviewer before, is sticky. i like them! and although the heel ridges look awesome, they only provide a slight advantage. dont rely too much on it.they're a comfortable all-day shoe. and what i love is that there is very little variability in sizing from the time that i bought them months ago and now (i go anywhere between 1-3 times indoor each week... i very rarely miss a week). few times outdoors at castle rock.laces are a bit long, but you can always shorten them and seal the ends with shrink electrical tubing (from radio shack).these are great for either bouldering for beginners (since they're relatively forgiving) or top ropping. but i've heard la sportiva's are the most comfortable. eh whatever.since i primarily boulder (actually, almost exclusively), i've since switched to the scarpa feroce, which is more aggressive but not severely down-turned to hurt.btw i wear a 9.5 in all shoes (addidas and skate shoes) and have a 42.5 / 9.5 in this shoe. pretty true to size. got these guys from REI since they were my first and had to size them on my feet instead of guestimate online.
I am amazed.
September 19, 2009
Excellence.. These shoes were designed for climbers with "Morton's Toe" ... a condition where your 2nd metatarsal (index toe) is longer than your first (big toe), so as we Mortons toe climbers know that in our normal size asymmetrical toe boxes cause overly extreme pain on the toes.. even the normal symmetrical toe boxes can be pretty annoying during a climb.
Enter the Evolv Demorto: These shoes do a fantastic job at solving the problem. The symmetrical toe box is a little longer where the second metatarsal fits, and the result is a custom fit for any climber that wants a tad bit more un-cramped room in the toe box. These shoes fit pretty true to size... My size 13 street shoe = 13 climbing shoe.
1. The rubber on these is pretty sticky. I have no problem smearing on the Sandstone at Castle Rock, or the Fakestone at indoor climbing gyms.
2. The rubber outsole design is semi-functional but definitely more useful than nothing. i.e. the heel would work well with/without the heel ridges pattern. (I tend to think a smooth rubber heel would be better for heel hooking surface area, but it does ad cushion and I assume that Evolv did their research).
3. The rubber overlap on the top and sides of the toebox is generous which makes for good underhooks and painless toejamming.
4. The lacing is norm, the dual finger loops/pulltabs are norm.
Weird: These shoes have a pretty flat but generous heel area so it makes a weird noise that tells me there is an air pocket with only half the contact. This is because MY heel sticks out more as opposed to a straight line from my calf to the bottom of my foot perhaps.
I noticed: My feet are somewhat wide on the outside middle section of my feet, and I am slightly flat footed so the leather bulges just a bit which probably leads to air leaks.
Overall, these shoes are great to climb in and so far I would buy them over and over. The only thing is, the Olive Green is kinda weird.. the Slate Grey looked way better.. Blue or orange would be awesome.