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Black Diamond brings tele gear back to the forefront of high-performance backcountry riding with the Black Diamond 01 Telemark Ski Binding. They won awards from Powder Magazine, Skiing Magazine, Outside Magazine, and Couloir Magazine. A simple push with your ski pole tip releases these hard-charging telemark bindings to tour mode. The free-pivot point allows a natural stride that matches the best alpine touring bindings and keeps you low on your ski for killer balance and feel. Lock these Black Diamond bindings back down, and their under-foot compression springs provide the power and control to drop the knee, get low, and haul ass on the most critical terrain. No more compromising downhill performance for touring ease. Black Diamond gives you the best of both worlds with the 01 Telemark Ski Binding.
Bottom Line:
Uphill touring ease and downhill skiing power—no need to compromise with the 01 Telemark Bindings.
I give these bindings 4/5 because even though they don't work for me, they are a nifty (albeit heavy) item.
So, lets preface this with saying that I ride size 21.5 boots - sole length of 277. Had a chance to use the o1's this past weekend (with the short barrels) and while they kept my boots in, I couldn't get them nearly tight enough to feel comfortable getting aggressive. Even with the barrels tightened to their max, on brand new boots, there was a little bit of play in the heel that made me leery. That, and they look really silly on smaller boots. I think there was more binding than boot.
Overall, got the job done skinning up, I do like the ease of adjustment from ski to tour and back, but not suitable for small boots, regardless of what their size chart says. I returned my o1s and bought some Bombshells instead.
Hi guys,
I just broke the heel cable on my O1 binding (first
Hi guys,
I just broke the heel cable on my O1 binding (first run, first turn on a pow day ....) and the end of the cable (the little screw-like piece of metal) is stocked inside the cartridge....Does anybody knows out to pull it out ??? Thank you,
Yeah, send it back to bc.com, and get a new set of Axl's. It's a far better binding, and cheaper, too. It's too bad that your binding busted on the first turn. Really. I hate to hear that kind of thing. Those kinds of failures are just the nature of the BD 01, along with binding pull-out, cartridge loosening and breaks, etc. Do yourself the biggest favor you can in the telemark world, and get some Axl's. Read the reviews. Axl's are the best. If you are set on keeping them, (and us tele skiers can be quite bull-headed, I know) then send the bindings back to BD, and they'll warrantee them. Backcountry.com's warranty is really better, though. They'll take anything you got from them, and give you back exactly what you paid, no questions asked. Also, if you want to keep them, go ahead and get the backcountry repair kit and extra cartridges, too. They WILL break again. Guaranteed. Sorry, again for your missed powder day. Major bummer. Hope the beer was tasty and cold in the bar. Good luck!
In addition to the cables always loosening up and my endless fight with ice buildup causing the tour/ski mode to not function properly, I have now discovered an inexcusable problem that is prompting me to return the bindings. The toe plate has become loose. In tour mode and in ski mode the toe piece rocks side to side. I have compared my bindings to my husband's and found his to have a small amount of play, not enough to be alarming, but my bindings, which do have a little more use, are just plain sloppy. So it could just be my bindings or it is problem that will develop with age. Mine have maybe 100 days on them. I expect more at 300$ a pair. The toe plates move a couple cm to either side which could translate to inches of movement by the time the energy is transferred to the tip of the ski. I tightened every screw I could find to no avail. I have to admit I enjoy the way the bindings ski and will never go without the free pivot again, but this problem I am having is the straw that broke the camel's back. I am going to get some hammerheads!!! Which I just learned may have the same problem but are easily tightened. Happy skiing!
01's do not compare to Axls. Most tip dive issues are not a result of equipment, but rather technique. I ski with my Axl's mounted center, or a few cm behind. A taller, stronger stance will help alleviate your tip dive problems.
I have had these on multiple pairs of skis and have thoroughly enjoyed them on all of them. I use this binding inbounds and for touring. I have had the smallest issue with the cartridges spinning but once I applied a touch of thread lock on them I haven't had any issues since. I have these paired up with Scarpa T-Races which is a seriously powerful setup.
Don't listen to the folks who spray hate on these. They are worth a try and if you don't like them you don't like them. I tried the 22 Designs and wasn't super stoked on them. So to each their own.
Been using the O1 since it was first released and theres a reason why I just bought another pair, because they are bad ass! A little heavier yes. Sometimes you get a little snow build up under the toe plate you have to clean out to lock the binding back into ski position. Sometimes the cartridges spin out. But every binding has their issues and these are pretty minimal in my opinion for why you buy these bindings, because you get phenominal power transfer, ease of switching from ski to tour and the cartridges don't get worn down because they are under foot.
i'm 148 pounds and have always been n the ridiculously stiff and have never felt more in control in any variety of snow condition and at any speed.
If you're refering to the mount pattern, they both conform to the "standard" mount pattern that was developed a few years back, which is now officially gone as a standard. But if you're refering to using existing mount plates, it will not work.
I think that the combination of foam-core skis and rid stiff bindings (and obviously shredding too hard) broke these bindings. I still have them on two pairs of skis though because I like the way they ski and tour better than any other bindings. Now I just have two backcountry kits, ready to go.
objectivity suffers at the hands of opinion. we all like the gear we like. bashing gear and companies may make you feel better, but at the end of the day, it doesn't really help.
I had two issues with the heel riser. To keep them up, it used a small ruber band. But on one of my skis the heel riser bended - they too weak, the wires are either to thin or need a design change to make them stronger.
I'm 210lb, 240 w/ pack/boots etc. I break every heel lift ever made, even BD 01's. What happens: stepping 12" uphill on 30 degree slope puts 300 lb on the binding cable, the springs stretch, heel moves backward flipping wire down. With BD 01 free pivot CRANK the springs so they never stretch while climbing. This is the other Huge benefit of free pivot bindings-tight springs to climb, and free pivot to climb. 01 springs always loosen, tighten them almost daily; I prefer this to past bindings that you can barely tighten without vice grips. To replace bent wires take the heel piece off the ski so you don't pre bend/weaken wires to install. I have used figure 8 zip tie around wire sides to tighten them too, hoky but helps, except tall wire w/zip tie won't pass short one, have to put both up. I've designed the new heel lift for tele, need investors?? (tomt@snowcrest.net)
the heel pieces usually have 2 notches for 2 separate climbing wires of differing lengths. My heel risers were acting up I switched the holes they were in and it completely solved the problem. Sometimes the plastic wears down a bit so you have to switch the holes the heel bails are in.
I've stuck with this design since they were called skye. The underfoot cable routing creates a really active feel when you engage the springs and a really neutral feel when you are flat-footed, and that's the best praise I can offer any tele binding.
No tip dive. None. Ever.
The g3s and the rottefella binders have always made me feel a distinct tip dive effect...which I think hampers tele skiing more than any other bit of gear. These binders climb smooth and ski smooth!
BD 01 (short) or G3 Targa Ascent? Medium sized lady looking for
BD 01 (short) or G3 Targa Ascent? Medium sized lady looking for free-pivot binding. Just got a pair of BD Joules.
Which binding should I get? Same price, similar features. I've heard that the 01 is burlier, but since I'm on the lower weight bracket of users, would this come in to play?
Tour mode is so easy.. get rid stiff if you're agressive and/or ride fat boards. Duct Tape the cartridges to prevent the anoying problem of them loosening on their own.. Lots of touring an no break downs. Ski great and very powerful. Never pulled out of skis like some have complained about. Broken heal blocks? No issues. I also have 22 designs Hammerheads.. I like them very much.. about the same going down hill, but no tour mode.
axl or O1 on a setup of movement sluffs? I just got a 184 movement
axl or O1 on a setup of movement sluffs? I just got a 184 movement sluff. I am a lightweight super aggressive skier who enjoys going super fast. I've skied rotefellas and hammerheads in the past and I enjoyed the hammerheads a lot. I like Black diamond but have yet to ski the O2. Any suggestions would be great.
After breaking every binding Rottenfella made and repeatedly breaking the Targa 'tour mode' heel bail plastic junk, I'm happy to put my BD 01s on another pair of skis. Love the 01's, can hammer tele, parallel perfect, and land small jumps without faceplants. Tour modes ROCKS, saved me a grand for AT gear. Never tried hammerheads, but don't want to as 01's work great(3rd season), nothing breaks except heel wires. I'm 6'3" 210lb mountain town ski bum, 15 years tele, using mid stiff springs, most all touring, no lift. The springs loosen, takes 10 sec to tighten; a few days a year the tour mode ices up, 30-90 seconds to clean out snow. Don't buy BD 01 crampons, worthless. Very hard to put on, and even with short heel lift, the crampons don't bite. If I had 300 clams I'd buy a second pair 01's for my new skis. I wouldn't want a stronger binding unless it released.
Have been using BD Justice 175s with an AT setup. Need to go
Have been using BD Justice 175s with an AT setup. Need to go back to a tele setup since this setup puts too much torque on a badly abused knee. Have G3 Targas on a pair of Powderbirds (with Scarpa T2X) and am wondering about using the 01's due to the tour mode. I ski parallel 99% of the time and very smoothly to avoid knee pain. Thoughts on this binding setup?
I can't speak to the paralell performance of the O1's, as i usually drop the knee. As for durability, i've got 100+ days on 2 pair, and about 30 on a third. Two of those pairs are working as well as the day i bought them for DH performance. the third(and oldest) pair is getting a little sloppy laterally, but the only piece i've broken is a climbing wire.
the wire is probably my least favorite part of the binding, but i haven't found one that works better(used G3's, older BD and voile heels to try to fix it).
Sure, Noah. I've had broken cables, seizing of compression spring threads, ripping out of skis, cracked or broken heel throw levers, (my buddy had one break at the start of a yurt tour) floppy climbing bars won't stay put, broken plastic parts. Mostly it's failure of plastic pieces and the seizing of the threads. Anyway, they just don't hold a candle to the Axls, or Hammerheads.
Tobin- The O1 are pretty rigid torsionally and my thoughts are you'll get the smother ride and less torque due to the boot, not so much the binding interface. They allow for really nice parallel performance and the touring mode is an amazing benefit.
I've had roughly 100+ days each season on the O1 since they came out and I haven't had anything 'break down' and I haven't heard of any other issues with them 'breaking'. Care to be more specific Jack Wizo?
Check the reviews. They'll give pretty good insight regarding the 01's and other bindings. If you're not going to be too aggressive, the 01's will probably be OK. The only issue you'll have as a smooth skier, is that they break down, so you'll want to get a backcountry repair kit.
So I am thinking about buying the BD 01's and I am cofused
So I am thinking about buying the BD 01's and I am cofused as to what size to get, I have Garmont boots the sole is 310mm, different websites say the standard size is for 305mm+, and others say 315mm+, should I go bigger and hope I can tighten it down enough, or go smaller and hope it loosens enough?
Go for the regular size. 305mm+ should use standard size. Trying to loosen those small cartridges too much could end up wrecking your bindings. Make sure you get the backcountry repair kit for these, as they will break down. I'll take this time to give my usual plug for Hammerheads: A far superior binding that doesn't have sizing issues or breakdown problems. More active flex, less lateral movement, and better power transfer. Adjustable binding action, lighter weight, superior construction. Buy Hammerheads or Axls (for the same features in a free pivot touring binding) and support a small Idaho business, and stick it to a multi milion dollar mega corp.
These bindings will let you go big. They are very active. They weigh a little more than the Ascents or Switchbacks, but if you tour on a fat ski and stiff boot, these are the bindings for you. The spring cartridges loosen and need to be tightened frequently. Snow build up under the foot is rarely a problem.
Will these bindings work with the K2 pre-drilled inserts? Also
Will these bindings work with the K2 pre-drilled inserts? Also I ski a scarpa boot size of 25.5, would that mean I need to get the small size rather than the standard? I have no way of measuring the boots sole size in mm to check.... thanks
I believe the sole length of 25.5 Mondo boots will be 298mm. Call it 300mm just to be safe. That means you'll want the short/small size cartridges. Hope that's a little more clear. Enjoy. While you're considering this though, may I make a small plug for Hammerhead bindings? A far superior binding- just look at the reviews! If you want a free pivot, check out the Axl. You'll be far happier with the 22 Designs Hammerhead or Axl. It's a little more money, but worth every penny. If you get 01's, make sure you get a backcountry repair kit, because you'll be having your bindings break on you. This brings the costs to about the same between the 01 and the Axl. No kit necessary with the Axl.
Yes, the O1s work with the K2 inserts, and I don't know the exact mondo size of a 25.5, but Scarpa T1s in a 28 are 326.9mm BSL, so a 25.5 is probably well below 315mm... Standard size fits boot sole lengths over 315 mm Small size fits boot sole lengths under 315 mm.
I rock these on every pair of skis I own. I love they and have never had any problem. In my option the only tele binding that should be used,(I would got NTN but they don't make boots in my tinny little size:)). The way I see it is if you like 22 Designs then you hate these and if you like these you hate 22 Designs. And I have skied the 22 Designs and didn't like a thing about them. What works for one person wont work for another. I love them and love BD. Living in SLC you break something they usually have a spare piece laying around they can give you. So supper rap and amazing company and they rock all around.
I have a pair Gotama 186s' and I'm looking for the right
I have a pair Gotama 186s' and I'm looking for the right tele set up. I am 6'2" and 195 pounds and I ski pretty hard mainly resort laps and back bowls but looking to do some mountaineering for the shutes. What do you suggest?
I strongly second Alexander's vote. Hammerheads are the only binding to use for some heavy Goat Mamas. They're really the only binding to use at all, in my opinion, but they'll be especially great for those Goats. When mounting, consider a forward mount; try to get the widest part of the boot to match up with the narrowest part of the ski. That's how I would mount them, at least. Just my $0.02.
Hammerheads or Axls. It sounds like you don't do too much touring, so the low resistance of the Hammerhead would probably work for you, or you can go full free-pivot and get the Axl. The Hammerheads provide amazing power and stability, they are bomb-proof, never break, and never rip out (due to the extra 2 screws). Adjustable resistance if you decide to get a stiffer boot, best bindings out there.
Better get the backcountry parts kit. when its all together, I like the binding, however the quality is less than what i would expect for this much cash.
Plan on mounting these up on a pair of BD Havocs 185's, I
Plan on mounting these up on a pair of BD Havocs 185's, I am an agressive expert 180-190 lbs. and will be driving them with new T1's so...midstiff or ridstiff?
I disagree entirely. I've been racing in the O2 for years, and had no lateral flex at all. Ever. Anyway, if you decide to go with the O1 (and I think that in the interest of fairness you should really demo a bunch of bindings), you definitely need Rid Stiffs.
Forget the 01! Get the AXL from 22 Designs. It is slightly more money, but so much more worth it. If you want a touring binding, the Axl is the best touring and performance binding around. There is really no comparing the 01 to the Axl. Try some Hammerheads sometime, and you will know what I'm talking about. I recommend 22 Designs bindings to everyone, and BD bindings to no one. If you are an expert skier, you need Hammerheads. If you want to take your expert skills to the backcountry, you need Axls. If you want your heels flapping around, and a lot of lateral movement in your heels, then get the 01's. If you want an active flex, with minimal lateral movement, and instantaneous power transfer, go for the Hammerheads or Axl. I could go on for days about how much better the HH is, but you should experience it for yourself.
The 01 has been the best tele binding for me. I have three sets of skis all mounted with the 01. I have never had problems and I think I ski aggressively. Perhaps I've been luck. I try to take care of them and ensure my cartridges are adjusted correctly before each use.
I love the constant tension, zero tip dive, amazingly fluid tour mode. Easy to use. Great to ski.
Hello
I just bought a set of BD O1's and a pair of Havocs.
Hello
I just bought a set of BD O1's and a pair of Havocs. Friends have recommended I put risers under the bindings. Could you comment on that and or recommend a riser?
You don't need risers unless you're carving really REALLY hard, most likely racing. I've been racing without risers for 5 years and never booted out once, and the fact that you're buying a binding with a free pivot means you probably aren't looking at carving much with them. I think risers are totally unnecessary.
These bindings held a lot of promise, I liked the concept and design when I bought them initially. Still do, but the build quality and material quality is absolute crap. After 3 days skiing with them the flimsy heel piece snapped in half, there goes 9 dollars on a new heel piece. Then after a month on them the metal just between the toe and started to warp upward which let that green piece rattle freely and caused a weird torsional thing to happen and ripped out of my ski. I have a friend whose O1's had a clean break right along that point after a season. Not a good binding at all if you like to charge when you ski. A good binding if you like mellow resort skiing or mellow tours. They can't take a beating. THey'd be alright if you were sponsored and got free new ones everytime they broke.
I'd go with anything 22 designs, those are bullet proof.
In this picture, you can see that the Hammerhead binding gives barely any lateral movement when using the same amount of pressure to twist the foot as in the BD 02 flex test (below.) This is w/ HH in pos. 5 with regular springs. A picture is worth a thousand words.
Be careful with tele bindings with 4 drill holes - I ripped these bindings off one of my skis (K2 sidestashes) skiing steep, firm snow last season. I proceeded to slide on my head and back through rocks, fortunately walking away with a only a bruised ego and a long hike out on one ski. After 15 years of tele-ing and multiple binding pull-outs with targa and bd's that was the last straw. I locked the heel down since then and am loving it. In my opinion, tele bindings are a dangerous liability and have not evolved enough to accommodate big boots, fat skis and fast turns. That said, think carefully about you and your touring partner's safety, rescue issues/challenges before you head out touring with teles.
I just got a pair of brand new Rossi Sickbirds 178 that are from
I just got a pair of brand new Rossi Sickbirds 178 that are from 07. I have been on teles now for 3 years. The set up I was riding was K2 world pistes 183 (i think) with rotofella bindings. I have the old scarpa bumble bee boots. I am 5'11'' 140lbs and a very aggresive skier. Is this a good ski? if not any recomendations. I was going to mount the Black diamond 01 binding on them. I was told to get standard with stiff cartridges. I haven't tried any other tele equipment except my K2 worldpistes. Just looking for some reassurance from some tele fans, since non of my buddies will free the heel. Am I heading in the right direction? Should I get new boots? I ski a lot in Europe, Vermont, and NY. Couple trips out west every year. Help a guy out!!!
O1s are an awesome telemark binding. They'll pair up well with really any ski, so I would worry about that. I've never skied the Sickbirds, but heard excellent things about them. I think the combo with the T1s should work out just fine for you, go for it!
I love this binding, mounted on 180 Moment Rubys. Feels more active than the G3 and BD03. Not as powerful as the Hammerheads. But touring mode works great, so easy to skin these fairly large boards its not even funny. Very easy to go from ski to free pivot. I had an issue with a cartridge, called BD and they overnighted a set of four replacements (great customer service if you ask me). The cartridges do loosen a little, but there are cures for this problem, my cure is to check them at home before heading out. My climbing hooks do not pop out, I installed them with the heel piece off so they aren't stretched out.
The only reason I gave 4 stars is because of the cartridge issue I had which seems to be 1 in 100,000.
I'm thinking of putting these on some BD Machines paired
I'm thinking of putting these on some BD Machines paired with Garmont Genesis boots. I'm 6'1" 165lbs, an aggressive skier in bounds but will use these quite a bit in the backcountry (I know, not the best setup for backcountry but that's what I got). Question is...mid-stiff or rid-stiff?
Even Rid-stiff is not going to give you a lot of heel snap-back. If you're into fast skiing, and big lines, then you should probably go for the Rid-Stiff, but take a serious look at the 22 Designs Axl. It's a far superior binding.
Man these are nice! Loving them already. Mounted them on BC 125 Skis and boy it is match made in heaven. The tour mode will take some getting used to. But it makes steep climbing much more comfortable, Zero movement restriction!
just read the reviews on the bd o1. can`t believe all the negative. ilove mine. two seasons and no gripes.they have made a better skier out of this old dude. am 64 yrs, have them on karhu bc 100's, and they perform great!
I have BD joules and Venus Garmont boots (25.6), I hardly ever
I have BD joules and Venus Garmont boots (25.6), I hardly ever ski groomed runs, lots of days, lady telemark skiier. I bought small mid-stiff. Should I have considered soft or stiff?
I think mid-stiff is right on. The rid-stiffs pair up great with stiff boots and hard charging skiing styles, but you being a lady I assume that you are lighter than the average man, and so I think the mid-stiffs will probably suit you quite well even if you do charge hard.
As you can see, there is about a half inch of lateral heel movement in the 02. This is with a relatively small amount of pressure to twist the foot. It would move more when skiing, especially in choppy, rough conditions when you're really cranking a turn. Check out the photo of the Hammerheads to compare.
I've skied hard on my BD 01s, both resort and backcountry, for 2 years with no problem other than occasional re-tightening of the cartridges and a couple of free-pivot-mechanism ice-ups that were easily resolved. Having the cable and cartridges run under the sole of the boot is key. They deliver a smooth, consistent flex and have a very active feel. I noticed an immediate improvement in my skiing when I mounted these up. They are fun bindings to ski, and they're excellent for climbing. I do carry a very compact repair kit into the backcountry but have never had to use it. I've broken other bindings, but not the 01s. Although I haven't needed it with these bindings, my past experience with Black Diamond regarding warranty repairs has been very positive. I recommend these bindings and just bought another pair for my new skis.
I am looking to mount these on BD havocs. I am a beginning tele
I am looking to mount these on BD havocs. I am a beginning tele skier but like to do back country touring. I were a size ten shoe. Any rec's on a boot and should I go with the small or regular (a size ten sole is about 305mm)?
If you wear a size 10 shoe/boot, you'll want the regular size binding. If you go with RidStiff or MidStiff cartridges, The BD Push or Scarpa T1 would be good choices to consider, and they both have a walk mode for touring. If you get the FreeFlex cartridges and prefer a more neutral flex, the BD Seeker or Scarpa T2X might be fitting. It's mainly preference, but your boot should match your skiing style and binding choice.
I've skied these for 1,5 season on a pair of Kilowatts in the Swedish/Norwegian mountains. Love the feeling of the binding while skiing and the tour mode is outstanding compared to my old G3 Targa.
That could have made it "The Ultimate Binding" if it weren't for the fact that it keeps breaking down.
After one (!) season they behaved like this: http://vimeo.com/15835562 (These are my actual skis)
I did a reclaim with Black Diamond Europe this fall and got a new pair for free. Good work, great policy's with world wide guarantees since they were bought in USA.
Mounted the new binding 3 weeks ago and have now skied them for 10 days. Thought the problem should be solved on the new pair, but no. Same issue with these. It's not as bad as the first ones but clearly on the way.
I haven't done any "extreme" skiing with these. Just normal all-mountain resort skiing and some touring.
Now I'm waiting for BD's response on this issue, but I doubt that I'll be using this generation O1 ever again.
Conclution: Don't buy these if you're planning on actually using them. If you like the feel in the binding, buy a pair of BD O2. Need a free-pivot binding, buy the Axl or Switchback.
I'm setting up my girlfriend with K2 Dawn Patrol, Scarpa
I'm setting up my girlfriend with K2 Dawn Patrol, Scarpa T2x and the BD01. She is 130# and is an intermediate to advanced tele skier. She has a pro cycling background so may crank it from time to time. Should I get the free flex or mid-stiff?
I had these for 1 1/2 seasons before they pulled out of my Rossi Ravyns and the metal of the toe plate snapped in two. The heel throws are made of brittle plastic that cracked on both bindings. I noticed the cartriges loosening on a daily basis, making me check them nearly every time. I wasn't cranking all that hard when they pulled out of the ski. Going to try to get them repaired, but I think I'll get Hammerheads next time. They do ski and tour very well, but it sounds like the Axls do too...
I've read on the reviews that this binding is great for touring
I've read on the reviews that this binding is great for touring and bc skiing, and that the 02 is great for resort and not so great with touring. Is the 01 good for bombing groomers as well as the bc? If so, will the mid stiff be the way to go with my BD Push boots?
The O1 is a great binding for doing anything. It has a fantastic touring mechanism that switches it to free-pivot at the push of a button with your pole, and the binding itself provides excellent power and control. Mid-stiffs would be a good combo for the Push, but if you are an agressive skier (or want to be) I'd recommend the rid-stiff cartridges.
Thought I would add a quick update to this review....I have been having some recurring issues with the heel block lately. BD has been pretty gracious about it, but it has left a somewhat sour taste in my mouth. I have broken 3 heel block in the same number of months. I am using the right screws, not over tightening, and not kicking off my bindings. The plastic is really just crap. It's two pieces of plastic, not even melded together. One simply sits on top of the other...somehow.The plastic continually breaks on the lower portion, right near the screw head. It seems to be a combination of poor designs and cheap plastics. The climbing wire sits idly, applying direct pressure to the area between the screws. I've been told by numerous ski techs that, if you actually ski, as in...more than 10 days at the resort, then this is a common problem. I've looked at the composite makeup of other manufacturers plastic heel pieces, and wow, they are much burlier. Especially 22designs and Voile.Just something to watch out for...otherwise, I still love these bindings.
Entirely agree, mine broke too like many others. Being a poor college student with possibly a lack of morals, I am retunring the 01s for some Axl's. Maybe some advice for backcountr might be to stop carrying the pruduct to save some money.
Thought I would add a quick update to this review....
I have been having some recurring issues with the heel block lately. BD has been pretty gracious about it, but it has left a somewhat sour taste in my mouth. I have broken 3 heel block in the same number of months. I am using the write screws, not over tightening, and not kicking off my bindings. The plastic is really just crap. It's two pieces of plastic, not even melded together. One simply sits on top of the other...somehow.
The plastic continually breaks on the lower portion, right near the screw head. It seems to be a combination of poor designs and cheap plastics. The climbing wire sits idly, applying direct pressure to the area between the screws. I've been told by numerous ski techs that, if you actually ski, as in...more than 10 days at the resort, then this is a common problem. I've looked at the composite makeup of other manufacturers plastic heel pieces, and wow, they are much burlier. Especially 22designs and Voile.
Just something to watch out for...otherwise, I still love these bindings.
Forget the 01's. Unless you're He Man, Hammerheads are the only binding with the power to drive those fat whips. Also, you might want to consider a stiffer boot, as well.
Rid-stiff without a doubt. The Prophet 130s are a huge ski and you'll need the extra power to give yourself some control. I'd consider buying a stiffer boot too, if I were you.
I have no bias with bindings: if they work I like them. These work. I haven't had to fix or fuss with these. I check their tightness before each use and have fun in the snow all day. BD makes good stuff and they have always stood by their products in my experiences with them. Definitely a little heavy, but to be able to skin using that pivot point is so nice. I'd buy them again.
If my memory serves me they do come with a clear stick-on template. These work on any ski as a good combo, it's the boot/cartridge combination that's going to make the real difference...
The BD 01 is a good binding, the tour mode feels like a soft boot. Cartridge spin is easily fixed with a little locktite. Downhill performance is as good as the 02. No they are not for hucking cliffs, and stomping landings off of big kickers.
Write your question here...
hi, I have got these bindingsand
Write your question here... hi, I have got these bindingsand looking at prurchasing the scarpa womans T2. Are they compatible???. I am not an aggressive skier, but ski the intermediate slopes and plan to spend a fair bit of time toring outback. I havent bought a ski yet, but what would be compatable for my ste up??
They are definitely compatible with the T2s. This binding is a great choice and you are gonna be stoked when you get out on them. They are a little heavier than some tele bindings but the difference is easily made up in performance, both climbing and skiing. As for a ski I would recommend the BD Joule. It is a great all mountain as well as backcountry ski. Have fun
Yes, they are compatible with the T2. I would consider buying the G3 Reverend, it's a good all around ski that can handle groomers and also deeper snow that you'd find while touring. It's also pretty light, and doesn't demand a hard-charging skiing style, which seems suitable for you. http://www.backcountry.com/store/GGG0081/G3-Reverend-Ski.html
I have around 60 days on my 01's. I love em. I finally got used to the midstiff cartriges. After using the cobra R-8's. I did however tear the binding out of my Atomic Kailas. After heli-coiling the binding back on and thinking it was repaired it only took a few turns for me to realize the it was a wash. The ski and its densolite core had been compromised and now I have a semi-new pair of Atomics with gaping binding holes. I guess I am considering T-bolts but am also willing to scrap the pair. I dont want to be touring and have another breakdown. Great binding but am curious weather its a design flaw or the densolite (foam) core of the Atomics. I'm not sure I'm going to use them on my new Line prophets. May stick with the R8 or go NTN at some point.
Skiing performance wise these bindings are a lot of fun, BUT I have ripped them out of two different pairs of skis. BD said that if you mount them with two-part epoxy that it would prevent them from ripping out, but I ripped them out again on the fifth day out with a brand new pair of skis. I was skiing the rid-stiff cartridges with the BD Customs boot. That is just too much torque for the four hole pattern.
I switched to Hammerheads last year after breaking the cables on my G3s for the 3rd time in 2 years. Iwas getting a little upset with the durability of G3 so when it came to buying a touring set up I looked at both G3 and BD. I found BDs design to be more solid feeling and easier to use. As with my HHs (Hammerheads) I get better action from having the cables underfoot than on the outside; this also saves the cables from the wear and tear that killed my G3s time after time. I must say that I disagree with a reviewer that said the tension is as beefy as the HH. I also ski my HHs in the 2nd to last notch and found the mid-stiff cartridge to be quite a bit softer than my Hammerheads. I think I would have been a little happier with the Rid-stiff, but I like more tension in my binding. Maybe I will have to buy some new cartridges this summer?
Two small complaints: BD went to all the trouble to design a great touring binding, but the climbing wire is a little loose. I thought I mounted it wrong but have rechecked my work and the instructions a couple of times. It does not seem to want to snap up or down firmly. I have not had a direct problem with it falling in use, but it could be better. The other is the heal throw. Both G3 and HH had a very easy throw that lines up with the boot very well and I can snap it in without even looking at my boot. The throw always lined up with the boot notch everytime. BDs is curved on the backside and this allows the throw to slide up and miss your boot notch if you are not carefull. Maybe I am just lazy or in a hury and should take the time to look at my boot when stepping in, but having not done it for years it is a small complaint.
All in all it is a good binding that I would recommend. I do like it better than the G3 but I have not tried the Axl by 22 designs (maker of HHs) new touring binding. Maybe worth looking at if you want ultimate power and don't mind the weight.
Things I've learned to make this binding work good:
1: Get your cartridges where you want them, then tape them together with a thin loop of duct tape. Looks a little trashy, but whatever - you're on teles, you're obviously a dirtbag.
2: After a lot of steep, awkward climbs/traverses, your heel lift wires will get wobbly and come slapping down when you most need them... Unbelievably frustrating... Remove heel pieces, put the lifter wire in a vice or in some burly channel locks and squeeze the open end, bending the wire so the tips overlap eachother (watch your eyes!) Makes them stay in their heel-piece grooves better when raised. Still happening??? Make sure no ice in the heelpiece wire grooves.
3: Occasionally, the locking bar mechanism (not so often the green button) jams with ice and you can't get it to go back to "ski" mode. Gotta remove the ski, but it's easy to chisel ice out with ski pole tip. No biggie.
I will agree with many others out there that these bindings need some refinishing by BD. The cartridges spin way too freely leading to constant need for adjustment, they are heavy and can be tough to set up properly. On the upside the tour mode toggle is the best of any of the tele-touring bindings I have used. Who woulda thought that a button that moves on a toggle up and down would be better than something you can't even fit your pole tip in to slide left to right and vice-versa. Make them lighter and make the cartridges stay in adjustment and I could see this being a more acceptable BC tele binding.
The best thing about these binding is the tour mode, it is simple to operate and it works very well. I haven't had any problems with these bindings after a year of use and they seem to drive my Zealots well.
While I don't have anything bad to say about these bindings, I probably will end up trying the 22 designs Axl on my next pair of skis. I like the idea of being able to adjust the stiffness of that binding without having to buy new components.
Many people are complaining about these binding but I have only had two issues. One being that the cartridges loosen on their own, but this really is not that big a deal. Just reach down and tighten them...I live in AK, it's cold, and still it's not a big deal. The other issue is that, yes, when the snow gets wet and heavy you do get some icing under the free pivot mechanism. This prevent the toe piece from locking down (dangerous). It had really only happened once or twice and was remedied by blowing on the binding and scraping the ice out, no biggy. This took about 5 minutes to get it back to normal.
coming from Kilowatts mounted with barons I am loving this setup. People who call 01's "heavy" are spoiled featherweights. I have my 01's mounted on a pair of 09 Anti Pistes and the inserts are doing fine and I have no issue with lateral movement or undue stress on the skis.
So far, I love my BD 01's. They make touring steep slopes and deep snow so easy. So far so good.
These are the most active free pivot tele bindings I have skied on. They weigh a little more than the Ascents or Switchbacks,http://content.backcountry.com/images/bcs/buttons/add_review.gif but if you tour on a fat ski and stiff boot, these are the bindings for you. Beware, the spring cartridges loosen and need to be tightened frequently.
These are my second pair of the O1 on a different pair of skis. Once again I couldn't be happier with them. It seems that the Cartridge loosening problems have been fixed for the most part. Very little if any movement of all with the cartridges. The touring mode is easy to switch into and out of with just the click of your ski pole. They're heavy but I like the "burly" feel to them personally. I'm a rid-stiff kind of guy myself since I tend to have more of an alpine turn with tele skis, bad knees means no knee drops for me. I love these bindings, in combo with my BD Custom boots, they rock.
1 Comment Last Comment: October 24, 2012 by: heart
By: heart
October 24, 2012
Hi Susan: What binding do you prefer. I "ride" 23.5 boots. I do want touring mode. H
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